I was given this saw by my former employer. I believe the saw had belonged to his elderly father, who no longer had use for it.
The saw's innards appear to be in fairly good condition. There was no mitre gauge with it; I'll have to come up with a replacement. This could be a pretty decent little saw given some TLC.
The base has been brush-painted. Whoever did it did a remarkably good job of it, but it's still a brush paint job on a piece of machinery -- yuck. That's just begging to be stripped and redone properly.
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Teardown -- TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2013
1) Rip Fence
The rip fence registers to its rail at the front, and locks to the front rail, like so.
That circular part at the centre of the photograph is the clamping element. Lowering the fence's lock lever fully pulls the clamp up snugly against the rail. The fence lock also squeezes the rear edge of the table. (I'll show that when I get to the final rip fence alignment adjustment.)
When unlocked, the rip fence lifts away easily.
2) Table Insert
The table insert has leaf spring clips fore and aft that hold it in place. A finger tug is sufficient to pop it out.
3) Blade
The arbour is 1/2" diameter, so the blade nut is 3/4" A/F.
The blade nut on this saw was on tight. I had to block the blade with a wrench handle, and use a big wrench on it, like so.
With the nut off, there's a single clamp washer to remove, then the blade comes out.
4) Rip Fence Rail
- Three 10-24 x 5/8" filister head screws.
5) Elevation And Tilt Handwheels
- One 10-24 x 1/4" cup point set screw per handwheel. (3/32" hex socket.)
- NOTE the notch in the end of the elevation spindle. A projection in the hub of the handwheel engages that notch when the handwheel is fully, correctly in place. The tilt handwheel on the right side of the saw is identical to the one shown above.
6) Tilt Scale Pointer
- One 8-32 x 3/16" round head plain slot screw.
7) Saw Base/Table Separation
- Four 5/16"-18 x 1/2" hex washerhead screws w/captive toothed lockwashers.
(That pulley looks to me like it's way too far over to the left.)
- With the fasteners removed, it's just possible to get the sheet metal base away from the table/mechanism. The base has enough 'give' to it that you can force it over the end of the elevation spindle, and so free it.
8) Labels
They're fastened with hollow rivets. Drill/chisel them A/R from inside to remove them. Here's a view of the three of them.
The model number label is from the lower rear of the saw's base.
With those labels off, I can see the original colour of the base; it's a blue/grey that probably looked pretty good. Why this saw was given a cheesy aluminum paint job is beyond me.
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The Table/Mechanism
Following is a sequence of four reference views of the table/mechanism while it's all still together.
Altogether, there are seven 5/16"-18 x 1/2" hex washerhead screws w/captive toothed lockwashers holding the mechanism to the table. Here's the plan: a) Separate the mechanism from the table. b) Clean the male and female threads of the elevation and tilt screws. Blow/brush the dust off the rest of the mechanism. There's really nothing to be gained by fully dismantling the mechanism; I could just make trouble for myself were I to do that. The arbour's bearings feel ok, so i'll just leave them be as well. The pulley needs to be repositioned further inboard -- that's no big deal. c) Deal with the table's rust and get it back to decent condition. I have a suitable length of steel flat that I can use for a mitre gauge bar. I'll have to ensure that it's able to run freely in the slots. d) Reassemble the whole works.
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Continued here.
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