tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31234375289709451502024-03-14T06:54:43.747-04:00Rouge River WorkshopQueen Anne Table Legs? We Don't Need No Stinking Queen Anne Table Legs!Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.comBlogger526125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-44784203568637782962023-01-14T13:38:00.001-05:002023-01-14T13:38:12.937-05:00The Passing of Tom Gaspick<p>Tom Gaspick sadly passed away today in the early AM of January 14th after a short battle with Cancer. </p><p>He will be missed and remembered by all those who loved him and all those he touched with his writing. </p><p>Details of his funeral service will be posted here when available. </p>Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-9814974708293044612021-07-11T16:17:00.000-04:002021-07-11T16:17:31.223-04:00A Toy Model T Tank Truck<p>From a plan in the "GREAT BOOK OF WOODEN TOYS" by Norm Marshall and Bill Jones, published by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9U07JJ4g4AM7Vh3xeX-A8k5WnTteaRIRNK2ypgyNzRwhYI42P2vG7ZqSsKS7SjXrgclJhl9ZGVberudgWBA4Pd2qj0pWMxL9eMIl9e4-MRjcg-SOUxe3AC5M-4BPPylCHrR_XBRPWOAs/s2048/DSC01343+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9U07JJ4g4AM7Vh3xeX-A8k5WnTteaRIRNK2ypgyNzRwhYI42P2vG7ZqSsKS7SjXrgclJhl9ZGVberudgWBA4Pd2qj0pWMxL9eMIl9e4-MRjcg-SOUxe3AC5M-4BPPylCHrR_XBRPWOAs/s320/DSC01343+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Some notes on the toy and the book:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>A purist might object to my use of wood screws to attach/reinforce the fenders. The plan calls for sanded-flush dowels to do that. I'm not a purist, and sanding dowels flush is a pain in the neck. Aesthetically, I have no problem with the odd metal fastener on a wooden toy. Needless to say, any such fastener must be absolutely secure.</li><li>Norm Marshall was a brilliant designer -- all of the projects in the book are exquisite. The workmanship evidenced in the photographs is sublime.</li><li>That said, I take exception to the book's subtitle -- "More Than 50 Easy-to-Build Projects". Hmmm. I suppose that 'Difficult-to-Build' would not advance book sales, but it would be closer to the truth. A reasonably good execution of the toys' plans demands a well equipped workshop, and a pretty good mastery of the machinery and tools therein. A marginally equipped beginning woodworker is likely to be frustrated. Many aspects of the builds are technically challenging.</li><li>The text is often light on specifics. Something like the following doesn't cut it for me: "Lay out the fenders (G) on a piece of stock; then use a bandsaw or scroll saw to cut them out." The pictured fenders are flawless. They were not likely produced on a bandsaw -- a typical bandsaw blade is a rough-cutting beast. I'd like to know what machine, with what manner of blade, the author used to get such a perfect outcome.</li><li>The drafting leaves a bit to be desired in some cases.</li></ul><div>Anyway, there are my quibbles with the book. By all means acquire the book and proceed to produce some delightful toys but be warned, the toys are not `easy-to-build`.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"># # #</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/p/commentscorrespondence.html">FEEDBACK</a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"># # #</div><p></p>Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-90226907488902088482021-06-25T16:23:00.000-04:002021-06-25T16:23:11.158-04:00A Broken Caster Mount<p> I built this little workshop truck years ago. The top is about 18" x 24".</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX7WXsFASmcDm4gaGxOVIMT1ERNTJYBy9YVZnDkpczFtJQOufzczHQbrPMQfzNRgrJN2DJP4ZiCjhGZrpu2ofWPXvFiGiicI56WoDBgL8E8XmoFnWysvot2bKZi3otFrsB3jdKgDCfZSs/s2048/DSC01328+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX7WXsFASmcDm4gaGxOVIMT1ERNTJYBy9YVZnDkpczFtJQOufzczHQbrPMQfzNRgrJN2DJP4ZiCjhGZrpu2ofWPXvFiGiicI56WoDBgL8E8XmoFnWysvot2bKZi3otFrsB3jdKgDCfZSs/s320/DSC01328+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>It was never meant to be an outdoor item, but it's been outside for the past couple of years, and the exposure has taken its toll on the paint job. The exposure has also resulted in the failure of a particleboard caster mounting disc.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkUHjPzx7QOBk_2kH4wzWng7Uuy5weDmFhTNofBlKO-BNmmWfHVu4TTMKfHNQlNvRrfobrnRCqg-mD-qW7_l8hM3ol5mQPlVdGSVrk2xJ3_K-e5OY_V6T2YEEqawkoz8o3PR_3mqLVlW8/s2048/DSC01329+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkUHjPzx7QOBk_2kH4wzWng7Uuy5weDmFhTNofBlKO-BNmmWfHVu4TTMKfHNQlNvRrfobrnRCqg-mD-qW7_l8hM3ol5mQPlVdGSVrk2xJ3_K-e5OY_V6T2YEEqawkoz8o3PR_3mqLVlW8/s320/DSC01329+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The fracture lined back up nicely. Gorilla Glue and a couple of c-clamps will have the truck back in business tomorrow.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVDo8sEZ3DISqD7NJ2PN3aJITMS-32xuBSfQG0oAlEZK_QWgztRVGRsBoz7IWBYI2VE5LxCNquiQuNphtQyO7mWlUdtZwbihhaGoHFr_PiwqCqgs9vRFyi2Kx2yH8jeFWEcTie_B5oFQc/s2048/DSC01330+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVDo8sEZ3DISqD7NJ2PN3aJITMS-32xuBSfQG0oAlEZK_QWgztRVGRsBoz7IWBYI2VE5LxCNquiQuNphtQyO7mWlUdtZwbihhaGoHFr_PiwqCqgs9vRFyi2Kx2yH8jeFWEcTie_B5oFQc/s320/DSC01330+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p style="text-align: center;"># # #</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/p/commentscorrespondence.html">FEEDBACK</a></p><p style="text-align: center;"># # # </p>Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-88116765581298456862021-06-22T14:39:00.045-04:002021-07-06T15:18:07.459-04:00Mastercraft 9" Band Saw (055-6748-6) -- Rear Blade Support Bearing Failure<p>
The rear blade support bearings lead a hard life, and both bearings on my
machine have lost their outer seals. The lower bearing, showered as it is with
sawdust, has all but seized up.
</p>
<p>The saw has an upper rear blade support bearing (two views).</p>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6w4Vb5D5GDLw09da23Qa0gtt9F8qSYD0UAisXBYk07uivZEYEUBfOipSX2GfztN6HbvLIg8OuSmrbuk03TiNIf794gvYKAlz0S9BDDyHqRozW41_-hwI6Ws6-FIUqYtENp1jhNWEIVw/s2048/DSC01325+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6w4Vb5D5GDLw09da23Qa0gtt9F8qSYD0UAisXBYk07uivZEYEUBfOipSX2GfztN6HbvLIg8OuSmrbuk03TiNIf794gvYKAlz0S9BDDyHqRozW41_-hwI6Ws6-FIUqYtENp1jhNWEIVw/s320/DSC01325+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYgNrykPDHXygl6cMnAD6JltdKgPAoqo8-e4oGLSa131m8QVk_hS-5sIaVx7NiLriupb9StljhyZnCOM_FV1HRrMq8T2aLkCUz7bjBbOSx9keKVlUifaIUYZL3fQa8nb8uQWy6JTuKBwE/s2048/DSC01320+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYgNrykPDHXygl6cMnAD6JltdKgPAoqo8-e4oGLSa131m8QVk_hS-5sIaVx7NiLriupb9StljhyZnCOM_FV1HRrMq8T2aLkCUz7bjBbOSx9keKVlUifaIUYZL3fQa8nb8uQWy6JTuKBwE/s320/DSC01320+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<div>And a lower rear blade support bearing (two views).</div>
<div><br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIifWwZ0EMw7nLwNrdscv8E16uaoBgCD8Rq4J1xOXCHEwKXPNE_H1oeSwiuJZQYAba61pka8ccPkFbZjCVitmGcfoeaitFbTbYUfPSRVdGJ3sJvzt4cXch5fEjHqK8ha_W2EiQuO9aHo/s2048/DSC01326+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIifWwZ0EMw7nLwNrdscv8E16uaoBgCD8Rq4J1xOXCHEwKXPNE_H1oeSwiuJZQYAba61pka8ccPkFbZjCVitmGcfoeaitFbTbYUfPSRVdGJ3sJvzt4cXch5fEjHqK8ha_W2EiQuO9aHo/s320/DSC01326+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnGLFNAK4apBuGpYIeSAKIga8oZPLgXfKyUAC_Nze5cqXTfdoa3du73-dKnXGKy91YoiyfCkQGn1XSK5qfNv-KRLSqOSba1G5l0_2T0W2Vfef_YIiXDxZBsUgPNEWdv70rqCvoJrjpjXc/s2048/DSC01323+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnGLFNAK4apBuGpYIeSAKIga8oZPLgXfKyUAC_Nze5cqXTfdoa3du73-dKnXGKy91YoiyfCkQGn1XSK5qfNv-KRLSqOSba1G5l0_2T0W2Vfef_YIiXDxZBsUgPNEWdv70rqCvoJrjpjXc/s320/DSC01323+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a>
</div>
<br />
<div><br /></div>
<div><b>Replacement Bearings</b></div>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
The bearings are No. 606RS -- 6mm bore x 17mm O.D. x 6mm width, sealed both
sides. Replacements are readily available from Amazon.
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div><b>Lower Bearing Replacement</b></div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Release blade tension and get the blade out of the way.</li>
<li>
With a 4mm hex key, loosen off the setscrew securing the bearing's
mounting post. (A hole in the front of the saw's frame gives access to the
setscrew's head.) Remove the post/bearing assembly.
</li>
<li>
With a 4mm hex key, remove the M5 x 16mm screw fastening the bearing to
the post. Mind the flat washers on either side of the bearing.
</li>
<li>Replace the bearing. Reinstall the post/bearing assembly loosely.</li>
<li>
Reinstall the blade and spin it manually to reestablish blade tracking.
The back of the blade should be just touching the upper rear blade support bearing.
</li>
<li>
Adjust the lower post/bearing assembly so that the blade is just touching
the lower rear blade support bearing.
</li>
<li>Lock the post/bearing assembly in place with the setscrew.</li>
</ul>
<div><b>Upper Bearing Replacement</b></div>
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
The upper bearing's mounting post is different from that of the lower bearing
-- it's not readily removable from the saw's frame with its bearing attached.
Proceed as follows.
</div>
<div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Have the blade tensioned and running true. The back of the blade should be just touching the lower rear blade support bearing.</li>
<li>Swing open the black shield concealing the upper blade guide.</li>
<li>
With a 4mm hex key, loosen off the screw fastening the bearing's mounting
post to the saw's frame.
</li>
<li>
Slide the post/bearing assembly back as far as it will go. The bearing is
now fully accessible for removal.
</li>
<li>
With a 4mm hex key, remove the M5 x 16mm screw fastening the bearing to
the post. Mind the flat washers on either side of the bearing.
</li>
<li>Replace the bearing.</li>
<li>
Move the bearing's mounting post forward so the bearing just contacts the
rear of the blade.
</li>
<li>Lock the post/bearing/assembly in place with the screw.</li>
</ul>
<div><b>Note</b>:</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div>
The saw's Instruction Manual calls for a 0.002" gap between the bearings and
the rear of the blade. Such adjustment strikes me as difficult, pointless
and needless. I simply adjust the bearings so that they are in contact with
the rear of the blade.
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"># # #</div>
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/p/commentscorrespondence.html">FEEDBACK</a>
</div>
<div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"># # #</div>
Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-2495248058353834952021-05-21T17:09:00.002-04:002021-05-24T14:38:32.397-04:00A Tecumseh TVS 90 Catastrophic Failure<p> The mower started up fine, then it started to make a clattering noise, then WHACK! A piece of the connecting rod came flying out the right side of the crankcase, leaving a gaping hole.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwz2HgEjMyvHLcDdw-aNB0CN-TxvdTrGODzjDFsSqpdMIRu7h8L9ZnRwLMnk7_xH87vlWtXodeTi1GH1XrGCBMypvTzLDIJL7vAYuF735a_3WJOr1bcn2DBxUZK72pBVQBzxKSuou9JXE/s2048/DSC01311+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwz2HgEjMyvHLcDdw-aNB0CN-TxvdTrGODzjDFsSqpdMIRu7h8L9ZnRwLMnk7_xH87vlWtXodeTi1GH1XrGCBMypvTzLDIJL7vAYuF735a_3WJOr1bcn2DBxUZK72pBVQBzxKSuou9JXE/s320/DSC01311+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Here's a view of the connecting rod big end piece that emerged from the engine.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Tcb2h4O-zho9kSo4I2sczztii79iswY6BV45DhchP0hH_8MDeoEoXilMxACd9_ciQnsauhbBKCcsyA65GURpCZCTNfZFRARroOa3IyeuYr7S96bymNyiAK81nbDV8r6hHP3-ui00oRg/s2048/DSC01312+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Tcb2h4O-zho9kSo4I2sczztii79iswY6BV45DhchP0hH_8MDeoEoXilMxACd9_ciQnsauhbBKCcsyA65GURpCZCTNfZFRARroOa3IyeuYr7S96bymNyiAK81nbDV8r6hHP3-ui00oRg/s320/DSC01312+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>For want of anything better to do, I may open up the engine for a look inside at the damage. We'll see.</p><p style="text-align: center;">* * *</p><p>Well, I didn't open up the engine, but I did remove the cylinder head. I extracted the piston, and retrieved another piece of the connecting rod's big end. Here's what I got.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD-bD0kexVLOOIf3Fjx7_5F5iyQlAXDKw0BbWbmFbNuSWL3dJFe-mtGE-yIh99lJEMHXCO1NHdc1UsNOMsXxSWsBRf9QNHZjPtdYBOXWAoHjkmCCx6itb0kyKS_P5IGf72uDdOZyEXUiw/s2048/DSC01317+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD-bD0kexVLOOIf3Fjx7_5F5iyQlAXDKw0BbWbmFbNuSWL3dJFe-mtGE-yIh99lJEMHXCO1NHdc1UsNOMsXxSWsBRf9QNHZjPtdYBOXWAoHjkmCCx6itb0kyKS_P5IGf72uDdOZyEXUiw/s320/DSC01317+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The failure is inexplicable. I'm careful about checking engine oil, and would never let an engine run out of oil. Anyway, that's the end of that engine.</p><p style="text-align: center;"># # #</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/p/commentscorrespondence.html" target="_blank">FEEDBACK</a></p><p style="text-align: center;"># # #</p><p><br /></p>Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-90243468583929100902021-02-05T16:48:00.010-05:002021-02-06T20:08:11.831-05:00A Coffee Mill<p>Loosely based on a design from the book "Woodworking Projects For the Home Workshop" by Rosario Capotosto, here's a view of my completed coffee mill<span style="font-size: x-small;">[1]</span>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiki9I_ImwE15EHj65lVORlHnKcgWpReHDt6vKd4S9MjuWom5DNaR8r08_KDCYzRkq1ThafXnWvs42uYyBnw3egp0__8A_u-I2joAv6Zi0FUENvMYP8CllvMInbjq0WKSCRcwV5kWNlySQ/s2048/DSC01292+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiki9I_ImwE15EHj65lVORlHnKcgWpReHDt6vKd4S9MjuWom5DNaR8r08_KDCYzRkq1ThafXnWvs42uYyBnw3egp0__8A_u-I2joAv6Zi0FUENvMYP8CllvMInbjq0WKSCRcwV5kWNlySQ/s320/DSC01292+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The grinder is Busy Bee's No. B3962, antique style side crank coffee grinder. Busy Bee also offers a top crank model for less money, but I thought that the side crank version is the superior design.<div><br /></div><div><b>Dimensions</b></div><div><br /></div><div>The base is 6 5/8" square with 3/4" corner radii. The box is 5 1/4" square with a 4 3/8" height. Overall height with the grinder attached is 12 3/16".</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Material</b></div><div><br /></div><div>I was determined to make the thing out of whatever I had on hand, so aesthetics took a back seat to the limitations of reality.</div><div><br /></div><div>The base with its radiused corners is 3/4" firply. The firply edges are veneered with birch hot-melt edge veneer (the only item I had no choice but to buy). The firply base contrasts mightily with the pine box and the birch edge veneer, but as I said, aesthetics took a back seat.</div><div><br /></div><div>The box is made of 1/2" thick pine, as is the drawer front. I had to thickness plane 3/4" material to get the 1/2" material. The drawer's body is made from 1/4" thick poplar plywood (subflooring plywood).</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Fasteners</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Supplied with the grinder are two 8-32 x 1 1/2" black pan head screws and two 5/16" A/F hex nuts. I added two No. 8 SAE flat washers, and two No. 8 split lockwashers for under the hex nuts. The screws' threads are slightly undersize from true No. 8 stud diameter for some reason. The hex nuts are undersize as well -- standard 8-32 hex nuts are 11/32" A/F.</div><div><br /></div><div>The drawer front is fastened to the drawer sides with 3/4" finishing nails. 1/2" finishing nails are used throughout the remainder of the drawer's construction.</div><div><p>The base is fastened to the box from underneath with nine No. 6 x 1 1/4" flathead wood screws. Attaching the box to the base is a tricky operation.</p><p><b>The Drawer Pull</b></p><p>It's an antiquey, oddball item I had lying around. Most anything would suffice.</p><p><b>Finish</b></p><p>One application of tung oil.</p><p><b>Grinder Action</b></p><p>The mill works as advertised, producing quite a fine grind.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjGUenO7pI56mWMpiXd-ACJK_5_iPx0slgaRdBjmjAkmfUEjckniXR9EkiwhUsT_B15iEq-r4HGGl_-fhWT5QUE-ceg9q3u5RcLmZfcb-gjt71A_1PPVOFkC8wE6NFdbk4Llatpms9F2o/s2048/DSC01296+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjGUenO7pI56mWMpiXd-ACJK_5_iPx0slgaRdBjmjAkmfUEjckniXR9EkiwhUsT_B15iEq-r4HGGl_-fhWT5QUE-ceg9q3u5RcLmZfcb-gjt71A_1PPVOFkC8wE6NFdbk4Llatpms9F2o/s320/DSC01296+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>It took a <b><i>lot</i></b> of cranking to produce the little heap of ground coffee in the above photograph.</p><p><b>In Conclusion</b></p><p>It's a satisfying little woodworking project that delivers the expected result. Be warned that you'll have to enjoy turning a crank if you expect to grind a lot of coffee.</p><p style="text-align: center;">* * *</p><p><b>Note</b>:</p><p>[1] The terms 'coffee mill' and 'coffee grinder' seem to be used interchangeably. I consider a coffee mill to be a complete unit with grinder and catch vessel; a coffee grinder to be the grinder mechanism only.</p><p style="text-align: center;"># # #</p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/p/commentscorrespondence.html">FEEDBACK</a></p><p style="text-align: center;"># # #</p><p><br /></p></div>Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-56037045413118984712020-07-24T16:41:00.000-04:002020-07-24T16:41:04.137-04:00Windshield Washer Failure -- 2009 Hyundai Tucson<br />
'Went to use the windshield washer the other day and nothing; the wipers did their thing, and I could hear the pump whirring, but there was no washer fluid emerging from the nozzles. A check under the hood revealed that the washer fluid hose was hanging loose on the driver's side. All the fluid that the pump was providing was coming out of the loose hose end. The failure was a snapped off hose nipple on the driver's side nozzle. Here's a view of the failed nozzle with its broken off nipple that I retrieved from the hose end, along with the new nozzle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFKAybXSUNDiJ7_hnVvIFmYCIpg7fXCSZoMfvbjeuF0xYEnzydxdtMKa8WxlsQ7UEtLBW1yFTn4Wag9YYo8e_Xto156k-CfLukWAkseDIO5eexYsw1YKX-z45bDRNKa_xSOv11IXwP5hM/s1600/DSC01284+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFKAybXSUNDiJ7_hnVvIFmYCIpg7fXCSZoMfvbjeuF0xYEnzydxdtMKa8WxlsQ7UEtLBW1yFTn4Wag9YYo8e_Xto156k-CfLukWAkseDIO5eexYsw1YKX-z45bDRNKa_xSOv11IXwP5hM/s400/DSC01284+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The nozzle's part number is 98630 2E500. (My local Hyundai dealer always asks for a VIN in order to look up a part.) Hyundai parts are not cheap; the new nozzle was $19.14 CDN + HST.<br />
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The nozzle is held in place by two claws -- one in front and one in back. The claw in front is easy enough to access to push on with a screwdriver and free. The claw in back calls for a tool that can reach in behind to pull the claw forward. A 90 degree mechanic's scribe like the one pictured below worked for me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrkjFkx7x0OLkHExqs5p_5tSJM3CWqXUVQl42p3hrGjkmr99tORtxDXKDw-sZ4CaLrVVwZnEpVTe1Sb8Y9YQ_yzNOgnktydrUYlTJSK_Exwky1_Xivgltg7W91PGAWn500Oac1LHumfeQ/s1600/DSC01287+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrkjFkx7x0OLkHExqs5p_5tSJM3CWqXUVQl42p3hrGjkmr99tORtxDXKDw-sZ4CaLrVVwZnEpVTe1Sb8Y9YQ_yzNOgnktydrUYlTJSK_Exwky1_Xivgltg7W91PGAWn500Oac1LHumfeQ/s400/DSC01287+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The new part just snaps into place in its opening in the hood. The hose goes on the nipple and you're away.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-51416053529023408782019-12-08T17:16:00.001-05:002019-12-08T17:16:35.889-05:00A Murray ELECTRIC 20 Snow Thrower<br />
A roadside find.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik-KR01ndubrVG909si-PFll9n64k7ATwZ-nW5Q-qDOo-kX8-yOdzZmvhz7CaxPWClOoeS4PP-loZHAlq_XduAVtodl-FDtH0GCYN9HfLM1RaWhvu7KXCWLVm3kXhlmo8OvpjtEIG-8WI/s1600/DSC01208+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik-KR01ndubrVG909si-PFll9n64k7ATwZ-nW5Q-qDOo-kX8-yOdzZmvhz7CaxPWClOoeS4PP-loZHAlq_XduAVtodl-FDtH0GCYN9HfLM1RaWhvu7KXCWLVm3kXhlmo8OvpjtEIG-8WI/s400/DSC01208+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Overall from the outside, it looks to be in remarkably good condition. It's a 12A, 20 inch swath single stage machine.<br />
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Model No. is 620000X30NA<br />
S/N 735492872S2C050C<br />
D.O.M. 2002.10.14<br />
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Something looks and feels fishy about the 'On' trigger though. There appears to be a missing safety interlock key, and the trigger's action doesn't feel right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9QtU-2Mu2vEznQCfUQMQJAMoFsPqVXQAVF3fZFPf_dHCJ4MFEFjzZRdQmuLEhl8khvXTyk2UM-dkXSXzF9syfuQLDeRa5tna5T9Q6DvSR7VMvqq3X4WyRuxrdutmxDp-cR8WDBaLeMkY/s1600/DSC01211+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9QtU-2Mu2vEznQCfUQMQJAMoFsPqVXQAVF3fZFPf_dHCJ4MFEFjzZRdQmuLEhl8khvXTyk2UM-dkXSXzF9syfuQLDeRa5tna5T9Q6DvSR7VMvqq3X4WyRuxrdutmxDp-cR8WDBaLeMkY/s400/DSC01211+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And sure enough, plugging in the snow thrower and trying it results in nothing. 'Time to investigate how the mystery interlock operates.<br />
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It turns out that that hexagon at about the centre of the above photo has to be turned slightly in the CW direction to enable the switch lever. The machine does run with that detail attended to. So, now I know that the machine only needs a replacement key (P/N 583356) in order to be operable. The next question is, "What's the condition of the drive belt?"<br />
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If the belt is good, this may be a saleable machine. If belt replacement is called for, a new belt may be too much money. (Belt P/N is 760976MA.) We'll see. 'Time to get the belt cover off for a look see.<br />
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<b>Belt Cover Removal</b><br />
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It's quite an array of fasteners that hold the belt cover in place.<br />
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<ol>
<li>At the front there are five 10-24 x 1/2" hex washerhead bolts, 5/16" across flats (A/F) with 3/8" A/F prevailing torque hex nuts.</li>
<li>At the bottom-front, there is one 10-24 x 1/2" hex washerhead bolt, 5/16" A/F with a 3/8" A/F prevailing torque hex nut.</li>
<li>At the upper-rear there are two 1/4" x 3/4" hex washerhead threading screws, 3/8" A/F.</li>
<li>At the lower-rear toward the front, there's a 1/4"-20 x 1/2" hex head screw, 7/16" A/F, with a flat washer. It's important that this 1/2" long screw be reinstalled at its correct location. A longer screw here might interfere with the drive belt.</li>
<li>At the lower-rear toward the rear, there's a 1/4" x 3/4" hex washerhead threading screw, 3/8" A/F, with a flat washer.</li>
</ol>
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And with those ten fasteners removed, one has access to the drive belt, like so.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizoxQIrJmwsZm0-Et6v_yba4oRaY8qaWFenLk0HWIjB8Mmqlh9zsO3JPGFLS4DhJrqytxCQt7IAkjUSpVHQH_rQfFYi7nUGLl0Gfkp7t8MpUygRWxhB-8dXzhQ2-Bo_joYoudj45XcEMY/s1600/DSC01213+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizoxQIrJmwsZm0-Et6v_yba4oRaY8qaWFenLk0HWIjB8Mmqlh9zsO3JPGFLS4DhJrqytxCQt7IAkjUSpVHQH_rQfFYi7nUGLl0Gfkp7t8MpUygRWxhB-8dXzhQ2-Bo_joYoudj45XcEMY/s400/DSC01213+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And as it fortunately turns out, the belt is in fine condition, and all is in good order with its pulleys.<br />
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So, if I can obtain a safety interlock key, I'll have a saleable machine here.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-51492579823446040422019-12-07T13:09:00.001-05:002020-03-10T15:19:56.083-04:00A Zippo Lighter Fluid Hack<br />
If you're an incorrigible smoker, and you're buying your lighter fluid in 12 ounce or smaller containers, you're paying way too much. Here's a work-around that saves money.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYrSOK8KC7cvSrJMwA3ptd7UinArKHYK9N-foNNsS-b2lx9DMYv6OLnmgtygx3ucmGhcUzlTmgZbnC7FUK1yAozabanSqm1Yh0idiwDtk4cVfs_1zWpi2rvGP-uKkIsO4zkPGBo8v3GXE/s1600/DSC01203+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYrSOK8KC7cvSrJMwA3ptd7UinArKHYK9N-foNNsS-b2lx9DMYv6OLnmgtygx3ucmGhcUzlTmgZbnC7FUK1yAozabanSqm1Yh0idiwDtk4cVfs_1zWpi2rvGP-uKkIsO4zkPGBo8v3GXE/s400/DSC01203+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Get yourself a Yankee gallon (3.780 ml) of Coleman camp fuel, and you'll have plenty of lighter fluid for way less<sup>[1]</sup> than you've been paying for the little bottles of Ronsonol or Zippo lighter fluid.<br />
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You will need a small Ronsonol bottle for the sake of its convenient cap/spout. The Ronsonol bottle pictured above is the 341 ml size. Its cap can be pried off with a suitable plain slot screwdriver. Then, with a suitable small funnel,<sup>[2]</sup> the Ronsonol bottle can be refilled from the big can of camp fuel. Snap the cap/spout back on the Ronsonol bottle and you're away.<br />
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<b>Notes</b>:<br />
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[1] I won't bore the reader with the math, but the camp fuel is less than half the price of the lighter fluid.<br />
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[2] The funnel pictured is an elderly Coleman No. 0, which I don't believe is available anymore. Try a dollar store or a hardware outlet for funnels.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-71815296604014357672019-11-17T23:40:00.002-05:002019-11-29T16:47:08.645-05:00A Toro Power Curve 1800 Snow Thrower<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicBCV4WvHnukY7Qhf5w56flKh_FwGFYQnOBwCZkhyphenhyphenSjLfvPvQCJevfbnVbY340BpjX5fp0YskOY_nH4hpxaeA7EyZ5XK1LzmsNltR-ikdIaMIg7b6eU6SIKH7T8jIUXdk2UaI-NZ5xqvo/s1600/DSC01119+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicBCV4WvHnukY7Qhf5w56flKh_FwGFYQnOBwCZkhyphenhyphenSjLfvPvQCJevfbnVbY340BpjX5fp0YskOY_nH4hpxaeA7EyZ5XK1LzmsNltR-ikdIaMIg7b6eU6SIKH7T8jIUXdk2UaI-NZ5xqvo/s400/DSC01119+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Someone brought me an electric snow thrower to repair. It's a Toro model No. 38025, S/N 290008995 -- an 18" swath, 12 amp machine.<br />
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It's missing its final drive belt, and the toothed primary drive belt is looking a bit frayed. Here's a view of the left side of the unit, where the belts reside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghwFHHuNgWijGzfuCsnQWDt6wQ_rIpnXIpBdDXuVs_aPnqrbpr4LlWcneFllKBa58URre7AuLVHkSRDkKTkFl2hGhyphenhyphenn1zqz3i3pUXxbxTWyjDYSs3wVRGq5wKEjM6J68L1K6_Puh_dQKQ/s1600/DSC01126+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghwFHHuNgWijGzfuCsnQWDt6wQ_rIpnXIpBdDXuVs_aPnqrbpr4LlWcneFllKBa58URre7AuLVHkSRDkKTkFl2hGhyphenhyphenn1zqz3i3pUXxbxTWyjDYSs3wVRGq5wKEjM6J68L1K6_Puh_dQKQ/s400/DSC01126+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Final drive belt replacement looks like it should be a breeze. Primary drive belt replacement will involve removing a pulley.<br />
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<b>Intermediate Pulley Removal</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmAnTcQh68TfsR06g-k_yXDlrwDdj0qRwHroja-WnFKsqPit_B-M7fu0teY-xdosp02GsTHx96ZzPSO0Sp6ERZOHIZEYd0SVSg0vK2yP7WjJns2potpCycdHCj0EqHbeBdR3uejJvwY00/s1600/DSC01129+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmAnTcQh68TfsR06g-k_yXDlrwDdj0qRwHroja-WnFKsqPit_B-M7fu0teY-xdosp02GsTHx96ZzPSO0Sp6ERZOHIZEYd0SVSg0vK2yP7WjJns2potpCycdHCj0EqHbeBdR3uejJvwY00/s400/DSC01129+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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That 9/16" A/F (across flats) hex is the head of the intermediate pulley's spindle. It has a left-hand thread, so it's CW to remove it. Removing the spindle with its pulley gets you to here.<br />
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The toothed belt's Toro P/N is 73-0160. Belt width is 19mm. On close inspection, the belt appears to be in good condition, and needn't be replaced.<br />
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<b>Final Drive Belt</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaivv4YNix0KFaxR0V4fcEtFSe-G3w_dCRwTYESBSXuu5q-zS0Pk8bqg2E5q0pmqfA0A0nUMccOGkSrD9334tR2eKg_8HXqYAYat6Ct8nQeWMsNyyj1VsVIdCxfsiV-JernCnWb_-Vs-8/s1600/DSC01138+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaivv4YNix0KFaxR0V4fcEtFSe-G3w_dCRwTYESBSXuu5q-zS0Pk8bqg2E5q0pmqfA0A0nUMccOGkSrD9334tR2eKg_8HXqYAYat6Ct8nQeWMsNyyj1VsVIdCxfsiV-JernCnWb_-Vs-8/s400/DSC01138+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's Toro P/N 61-8802; a five-ribbed belt. The belt is a tight fit -- it takes a bit of doing to get it on its pulleys. You may want to unspring the tension idler to make installation a little easier. Belt tension seems excessive to me, but it is the correct belt.<br />
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Here's a view of the installed belt.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmv1BBKAPP2_LG6EEPs2YmVOPmoESDLaPM5JUTVa0ghVKpYkYI9nY0WtwaWdpjog6C3ris2UzJZncJ8G6V12xp3SsC8lwfitKUsyn7D5TsEohZ-lsYME1cjBdbg41bf4hpBbt7O3h4RyI/s1600/DSC01144+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmv1BBKAPP2_LG6EEPs2YmVOPmoESDLaPM5JUTVa0ghVKpYkYI9nY0WtwaWdpjog6C3ris2UzJZncJ8G6V12xp3SsC8lwfitKUsyn7D5TsEohZ-lsYME1cjBdbg41bf4hpBbt7O3h4RyI/s400/DSC01144+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Left Side Cover</b><br />
<br />
The cover was missing its three fastening screws, and an associated skid plate. I replaced the screws with No. 8 x 3/4" hex washerhead sheet metal screws, GC Electronics P/N 11-206-C. The machine will have to do without its left side skid plate, unless the owner can find what's become of it. Here's a view of the left side cover installed with its replacement screws<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtYwGQHF6aUiSKyr-ImX-NBonIyoIlz-qhW9K8r5gUDaEM6ZCYGpThpLKDs2nr6Tx6Kwotn615-5CAS4JwHSsANg0HZAVtMajy1CpFk3JhFmqeqIZsIqeI7QIRHZO1Z10rD5kVbN3iBY/s1600/DSC01150+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtYwGQHF6aUiSKyr-ImX-NBonIyoIlz-qhW9K8r5gUDaEM6ZCYGpThpLKDs2nr6Tx6Kwotn615-5CAS4JwHSsANg0HZAVtMajy1CpFk3JhFmqeqIZsIqeI7QIRHZO1Z10rD5kVbN3iBY/s400/DSC01150+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Discharge Chute</b><br />
<br />
The upper deflector portion of the chute is loose on its pivots.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_dg7vmVuoltfAekPLt9nshyyJCQRTXXSt5ZcSKMTLqfGkAua70FVpTORDH_mchyphenhyphenpGut9Szl_4J6RGd3Aa0y6YVjgACjcWAnhK-fp-MGTtSxk06Xny4wlztw-usYtuBZqhP-GX7g7PTk/s1600/DSC01155+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_dg7vmVuoltfAekPLt9nshyyJCQRTXXSt5ZcSKMTLqfGkAua70FVpTORDH_mchyphenhyphenpGut9Szl_4J6RGd3Aa0y6YVjgACjcWAnhK-fp-MGTtSxk06Xny4wlztw-usYtuBZqhP-GX7g7PTk/s400/DSC01155+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts aren't seated in their square recesses, and the prevailing torque of the nyloc nuts is too great for the plastic material to resist. Trying to tighten the nyloc nuts only causes the bolts to turn. The bolts' shanks won't seat in the square recesses. The pivoting/tensioning scheme cannot work as designed.<br />
<br />
I replaced the carriage bolts with 1" hex head bolts with 5/16" plate washers under the heads. That makes it possible to snug up the bolts so the deflector is properly tensioned.<br />
<br />
<b>In Conclusion</b><br />
<br />
A worthwhile repair, I suppose, although the price of the replacement final drive belt struck me as outrageous -- $46.46 CDN + HST came to $52.50! A new replacement machine, same make and model, is $449.00 CDN + HST at the Home Depot, so repair cost here was within reason.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Missing Left Side Skid Plate Dealt With</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2019</span><br />
<br />
That missing left side skid was bothering me, so I came up with a fix. Here's a view of the skid that's on the right side leading edge of the auger housing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvvGCOSPFL8OoLAEEVk1XYrgGue7CBH0D13v6RbqtCl9xIsHc99Gt3c-3LA1NBptBWdRjZj6N-iSoJseuhm3iO0UF7jsfec7aEO1pdyKR3shrnQT5XApkpL9075_HxI0MJ4pWIvMRijM/s1600/DSC01157+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvvGCOSPFL8OoLAEEVk1XYrgGue7CBH0D13v6RbqtCl9xIsHc99Gt3c-3LA1NBptBWdRjZj6N-iSoJseuhm3iO0UF7jsfec7aEO1pdyKR3shrnQT5XApkpL9075_HxI0MJ4pWIvMRijM/s400/DSC01157+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Note the two tabs that employ two right side cover screws to fasten the skid in place.<br />
<br />
I could see no practicable way to fabricate a truly equivalent part.<sup>[1]</sup> So, I fabricated a skid with a different fastening scheme. Here's a view of what I came up with for the left side.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpW8FyeuhAus0eIwyIrd4ynOLlToiWMWyKnKMNohmavQJ4IQY21JCb4PncOqDli9j9YsGFcs86PDhBDQz0U94Ewgg9Z6qxU4BS5ViBurcLq8GIjgW09tj7a4t4VttEIGEEQc3DPSk4K8I/s1600/DSC01162+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpW8FyeuhAus0eIwyIrd4ynOLlToiWMWyKnKMNohmavQJ4IQY21JCb4PncOqDli9j9YsGFcs86PDhBDQz0U94Ewgg9Z6qxU4BS5ViBurcLq8GIjgW09tj7a4t4VttEIGEEQc3DPSk4K8I/s400/DSC01162+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
That's a 5" length of 1/8" x 1/2" steel flat, rolled to conform to the auger housing's profile. Three countersunk holes accept No. 5 x 1/2" flat head wood screws. It looks to me like a sound arrangement -- I'm quite pleased with it.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<br />
<b>Addendum</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2019</span> -- <b>Get The Idler Tension Spring Hooked On Right!</b><br />
<br />
You want the idler tension spring to be securely hooked. Here's how it ought to look.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSsk2yL7zp1uGB7aMPTX6-36mzARERLa319AELIn4P9IRzAtbAv2rsAdEvr_8ozJ_6Tsnyq9smcq1BFvyMRtEjOQheIU-Iv9ELyNen1bq8_eOec1uzZMR_07rz0_DdBl5PTtY9z4uL_M/s1600/DSC01189+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWSsk2yL7zp1uGB7aMPTX6-36mzARERLa319AELIn4P9IRzAtbAv2rsAdEvr_8ozJ_6Tsnyq9smcq1BFvyMRtEjOQheIU-Iv9ELyNen1bq8_eOec1uzZMR_07rz0_DdBl5PTtY9z4uL_M/s400/DSC01189+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
If the spring is hooked the other way around, the hooking won't be nearly as secure.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
* * *</div>
<br />
<b>Note</b>:<br />
<br />
[1] "So why not just obtain an OEM replacement for the missing skid?", you may ask.<br />
<br />
Too much aggravation and expense is why. Another trip out to the small engines place in Pickering, where they'd be unlikely to stock such an item. Then, if the part were available to be ordered, another trip out to Pickering to collect it, plus the cost of the part itself.<br />
<br />
By fabricating a functionally equivalent part from material I had on hand, I bypassed all that and I now have a truly finished repair that I can return to the customer right now. An outcome well worth the effort of part fabrication.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-12205783280981920892019-11-09T15:41:00.002-05:002019-11-09T15:44:50.941-05:00A Freakish Knife Failure<br />
Found in the dishwasher after a wash cycle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbXs13DM18deIckzc_lUJkuboI2l2As3a2ARGCteucnPezBcZI8A-r6cWXAA3mkT_TeJFchhFtC0-JAAXJ3XG2ajNVzTbtgP0V0tWtbCjuWFgV8M0VgBqSKcVDXYYLmTJltj0RoM4bGg/s1600/DSC01088+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbXs13DM18deIckzc_lUJkuboI2l2As3a2ARGCteucnPezBcZI8A-r6cWXAA3mkT_TeJFchhFtC0-JAAXJ3XG2ajNVzTbtgP0V0tWtbCjuWFgV8M0VgBqSKcVDXYYLmTJltj0RoM4bGg/s400/DSC01088+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A supposedly high quality Cuisine de France chef's knife. It just up and broke in two -- quite mind boggling.<br />
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And it was one of my wife's favourites.<br />
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Anyway, there's no conceivable way of repairing that, that's for sure.<br />
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# # #</div>Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-22346539228426757462019-11-05T16:30:00.000-05:002019-11-06T07:22:38.168-05:00Honda HS621 Snow Thrower Oil Change<br />
Changing the oil in a Honda HS621 snow thrower is a bit awkward owing to the placement of the drain plug and the filler neck. Here are a couple of items that make the job relatively easy.<br />
<br />
First is a suitable drain pan. In Canadian Tire's kitchenwares section, I found a Lagostina cake pan that's 9" square by about 1 1/2" deep. It's perfectly suited to the task. The pan was on special so the price was reasonable. A dollar store might have something similar for even less money, though. Here's a view of the pan in position for draining the oil.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqyJllxDJvt8MRd0cNEnk_Ks8FXMdfIZ7nB6jvkGKN3zlJ0qPjmEOU285XftSzctuVW2RQX-unzYv4T_fwxxiF6BAy-PMwN6yDhPivE8GHb3dYn4eC_MHCC1H2hce4BXo44lX84W1_XXE/s1600/DSC01082+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqyJllxDJvt8MRd0cNEnk_Ks8FXMdfIZ7nB6jvkGKN3zlJ0qPjmEOU285XftSzctuVW2RQX-unzYv4T_fwxxiF6BAy-PMwN6yDhPivE8GHb3dYn4eC_MHCC1H2hce4BXo44lX84W1_XXE/s400/DSC01082+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The drain plug's hex takes a 10mm socket wrench.<br />
<br />
Second, you'll need a funnel with a 9" length of tubing for a neck extension. Here's what I cobbled together from what I had on hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkB2zqJYeHvqi2MqruQvihfmtHSb0r2YkcTGGBNPHj4uepJ_J8m-ZSGMwMS58E9Q_xHNep6bdZ7l73gNm9aLO7wmGpQHgKog6XpT5To9JWCvU6imFVH6UqLphupxjiTVeivdLSQvBJjDE/s1600/DSC01085+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkB2zqJYeHvqi2MqruQvihfmtHSb0r2YkcTGGBNPHj4uepJ_J8m-ZSGMwMS58E9Q_xHNep6bdZ7l73gNm9aLO7wmGpQHgKog6XpT5To9JWCvU6imFVH6UqLphupxjiTVeivdLSQvBJjDE/s400/DSC01085+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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That solves the difficulty of getting to the engine's oil filler neck.<br />
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Honda's oil recommendation is 5W30. Sump capacity is 600ml. With a full sump, oil should just be visible at the opening of the filler neck.<br />
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# # #</div>Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-1735471939735761222019-11-05T13:54:00.000-05:002019-11-25T14:08:13.730-05:00A No-Name 19" Push Lawnmower<br />
A roadside find, in rough condition, possibly destined to be scrap metal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4L1qD8ccve7rfC-eh3nZ0VXXDhP0t1YNE_1IG9gSDFnK6JoGQivDQLHpfNvebbTNYHUmIUeop9zHcxzIg3VAz_xPVFv4RF7ou5yULPVU98TkdTxPFuzqiXceP-VIvyOZkRm4faPwvAWk/s1600/DSC01063+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4L1qD8ccve7rfC-eh3nZ0VXXDhP0t1YNE_1IG9gSDFnK6JoGQivDQLHpfNvebbTNYHUmIUeop9zHcxzIg3VAz_xPVFv4RF7ou5yULPVU98TkdTxPFuzqiXceP-VIvyOZkRm4faPwvAWk/s400/DSC01063+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUW8nWiKc3VPunCkEBrOGEZYLd4PhDYRz8sAaCsI0xAreSw3jFL9W7vratvqQfLS2vMnH7lCXCWZkwputL76uk4qsoEhdm_E09ysgPWxKaT_1S5nVqUumnLRbfwn-wjuqM4_dilrCR0NA/s1600/DSC01067+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUW8nWiKc3VPunCkEBrOGEZYLd4PhDYRz8sAaCsI0xAreSw3jFL9W7vratvqQfLS2vMnH7lCXCWZkwputL76uk4qsoEhdm_E09ysgPWxKaT_1S5nVqUumnLRbfwn-wjuqM4_dilrCR0NA/s400/DSC01067+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's also easily the ugliest lawnmower I've ever seen -- a dreadful colour scheme.<br />
<br />
Anyway, the first order of business is to deal with the stuck starter. It won't recoil. The starter cord's handle is some sort of steel bracket.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8uOG-u5ui4XmOLy_lGVTjvCX5hdzG6abFTvpXRmk_6GNFinADtAr6AKdO4mvv_vQCH-XH3ZV27kns2TeIZ-Bk-s0MRUAp3YCOM0AWVhIVcMnRaJGI0ud2WNgAQrGPFJHjr7Gc24zgALg/s1600/DSC01070+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8uOG-u5ui4XmOLy_lGVTjvCX5hdzG6abFTvpXRmk_6GNFinADtAr6AKdO4mvv_vQCH-XH3ZV27kns2TeIZ-Bk-s0MRUAp3YCOM0AWVhIVcMnRaJGI0ud2WNgAQrGPFJHjr7Gc24zgALg/s400/DSC01070+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<br />
<b>Starter Working</b><br />
<br />
The spring needed winding up. The cord is too short to be parked up on the handlebar as it ought to be, but it's long enough to work so I can test for spark.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Starter Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2019</span><br />
<br />
I installed a new cord -- an 88" MTD/Atlas item from Canadian Tire. Canadian Tire P/N 60-7553-8. $5.99 CDN + HST. I had a salvaged grip on hand. The new arrangement works fine. The 88" cord length is adequate for parking the grip up on the handlebar.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Spark Plug</b><br />
<br />
It's a Champion RJ19LM, which is correct for the engine. The plug is in reasonably good condition, but the gap is oversize. I set the gap to a snug 0.030". A spark test reveals that I do have spark.<br />
<br />
<b>Engine</b><br />
<br />
Engine is a Tecumseh. As best I can make out the codes embossed on the front of the cowl, it's a TVS90 43368F SER 80686.<br />
<br />
<b>Compression Test</b><br />
<br />
I got a reading of about 42 PSI. That's pretty lame. A well worn engine may exhibit 50 PSI, so this engine is past it. Just for the heckuvit, I'll see if I can get it to start and run.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Compression Test Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2019</span><br />
<br />
I did get the engine to start and run. After running the engine for a brief while, I did another compression test. That test returned a reading of almost 60 PSI. I imagine that the piston rings got a good shakeup, and started to seat better in the cylinder's bore. 60 PSI is still not great compression, but in my experience, 60 PSI is viable compression -- the engine still has useful life in it.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Fuel Tank</b><br />
<br />
The fuel tank lifts off two ways at the rear of the cowl. There's a spring-type hose clamp to be dealt with at the fuel line nipple.<br />
<br />
The tank is all but empty. There doesn't appear to be water or sludge in it. The cap is cracked. The cap's gasket is ill-fitting, and falls out easily.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Fuel Tank Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2019</span><br />
<br />
New red fuel tank cap. Tecumseh P/N 34210.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Air Cleaner</b><br />
<br />
The air cleaner is mis-installed, and missing its cover. Two special 10-32 shoulder screws with 1/4" A/F (across flats) hex heads with No. 2 Phillips recesses fasten the air cleaner's body to the carburetor. There's a round gasket in the air cleaner's air horn where it contacts the carburetor. The gasket is inclined to stay in its groove and not come loose.<br />
<br />
<b>Cowl</b><br />
<br />
At the front, two 10-24 x 1/2" hex washerhead screws with captive external tooth washers, 5/16" A/F.<br />
<br />
At the rear, two 1/4"-20 hex washerhead screws, 3/8" A/F.<br />
<br />
<b>Governor/Throttle Control Plate On Top Of Carburetor</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSWsMg3VBhbs1V_ZRXnXBKHUmjHtqiF_IVgdZ8_wnL4aC4181D5dJK72UrL7iQpIgYLFOnjQyR-kN0OM-DDI2jjiKSU9XJeRJu8BXTalySGTH445gM8hyphenhyphenC0DjzLfb2OLio186riW4lpw/s1600/DSC01076+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSWsMg3VBhbs1V_ZRXnXBKHUmjHtqiF_IVgdZ8_wnL4aC4181D5dJK72UrL7iQpIgYLFOnjQyR-kN0OM-DDI2jjiKSU9XJeRJu8BXTalySGTH445gM8hyphenhyphenC0DjzLfb2OLio186riW4lpw/s400/DSC01076+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Note the positions of the adjustable features of the plate -- the throttle cable jacket's position and the plate's position.<br />
<ul>
<li>Throttle cable. Loosen off the clamp (1/4" A/F hex) and unhook the cable.</li>
<li>Control plate. Two 10-24 x 1/2" hex washerhead screws with captive external tooth washers, 5/16" A/F.</li>
<li>Unhook the governor spring link.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<b>Carburetor</b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Two 1/4"-28 x 7/8" hex head screws, 3/8" A/F with two 7/16" A/F KEPS nuts.</li>
<li>Note the position of the governor link in the throttle lever, and unhook the link.</li>
<li>Float Bowl Screw. 1/2" A/F hex.</li>
</ul>
<div>
The carburetor is a float bowl type, as simple a design as one will ever see. There are no adjustments aside from float level. There is no idle jetting. Pressing the primer bulb forces a visible squirt of fuel up and out of the main jet into the venturi.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Start Up Trial</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
'Put some fuel in it, gave it three primes and it started on the first pull. So, even with compression as low as 42 PSI, a four-stroke engine will start and run.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
That doesn't save this lawnmower from the scrapyard, though. It's too ugly and too far gone to sell.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
* * *</div>
<br />
<b>Oh, What The Hey</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 23, 2019</span><br />
<br />
For want of anything better to do, I decided to go ahead and try to make a serviceable, saleable mower out of this piece of junk. That took a fair bit of doing. Here's what I've done.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiph7BFmOelVyLpPCibrBtFq-djIaUAIdJUDHGx9Z-EDPlsFjkaeWDziGjrIm25in3CtThZtZVoUslh-fdI7wrB3FXnv1rW_wF7MG4fCB8hbemdQ2IH7HOkbxGHvLQ91PE0tY7-W29iyAI/s1600/DSC01174+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiph7BFmOelVyLpPCibrBtFq-djIaUAIdJUDHGx9Z-EDPlsFjkaeWDziGjrIm25in3CtThZtZVoUslh-fdI7wrB3FXnv1rW_wF7MG4fCB8hbemdQ2IH7HOkbxGHvLQ91PE0tY7-W29iyAI/s400/DSC01174+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Painting</b><br />
<br />
I stripped the blue paint off the handlebars with paint remover. The handlebars, engine cowl and discharge chute all got painted gloss black. 'Looks much better.<br />
<br />
Primer was Canadian Tire Armor Coat grey primer P/N 048-0621-0. Paint (two coats) was Canadian Tire Armor Coat gloss black enamel P/N 048-0314-2.<br />
<br />
<b>Deck Cracks Behind Rear Wheels</b><br />
<br />
I cut two patch plates from 1 1/2" wide steel flat, and installed them with 1/8" hollow aluminum rivets, like so.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRAHc-NB4jLsgfgGsDfyA5868eOXmGfKVQM_HnoIkDsx90tjH6ugqgCKyIrjR3jHXDk_mUiNJMTcWXoLYkE3eR6jxkek8lDPbKGnA8TZpRTi90XUiIuEi0HG0q5NAq669kE7GnoD1CYhM/s1600/DSC01171+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRAHc-NB4jLsgfgGsDfyA5868eOXmGfKVQM_HnoIkDsx90tjH6ugqgCKyIrjR3jHXDk_mUiNJMTcWXoLYkE3eR6jxkek8lDPbKGnA8TZpRTi90XUiIuEi0HG0q5NAq669kE7GnoD1CYhM/s400/DSC01171+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
I also used the same 1 1/2" wide steel flat to fabricate two rectangular 'washers' for underneath the handlebar brackets.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9uehgHL8-yggpuZyjC6o3X0LOEFIJcNkggJxe3T9VFXCkxUJB-OBXplAjlsoggkubweKrVXX2hUDKDIsfit9k-VolbzBIfocF6y9jYWqKkkDj1OgguheQBO9iSNEjh9sIl245A7d56To/s1600/DSC01177+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9uehgHL8-yggpuZyjC6o3X0LOEFIJcNkggJxe3T9VFXCkxUJB-OBXplAjlsoggkubweKrVXX2hUDKDIsfit9k-VolbzBIfocF6y9jYWqKkkDj1OgguheQBO9iSNEjh9sIl245A7d56To/s400/DSC01177+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The rear of the deck is now rigid as it ought to be.<br />
<br />
<b>Trailing Flap</b><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcbsp1WcxTjGczyN3bwi2mY4R428FrC0HNJVF_1u4o4ZajywvkLTOeJwhNZtY9JrOdqy0mv0sxAv1eo712QWlTUBxEyKOIiEAiPeHVUNaAN57Mk_h9bhyphenhyphenPf7iHKg7hvtklZ_3Ye5VAW0U/s1600/DSC01180+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcbsp1WcxTjGczyN3bwi2mY4R428FrC0HNJVF_1u4o4ZajywvkLTOeJwhNZtY9JrOdqy0mv0sxAv1eo712QWlTUBxEyKOIiEAiPeHVUNaAN57Mk_h9bhyphenhyphenPf7iHKg7hvtklZ_3Ye5VAW0U/s400/DSC01180+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The original flap was completely torn off. The pictured flap that I've installed is the same as that used on my own lawnmower. The parts breakdown in my user's manual gave me the part number -- MTD P/N 731-06953 -- so I was able to order one from the small engines place in Pickering.<br />
<br />
For hinges, I used 1/2" All Round strapping. The hinges are anchored by two 10-24 aluminum threaded inserts, with 1/2" long hex socket head screws.<br />
<br />
<b>Air Cleaner Cover</b><br />
<br />
The air cleaner cover was missing altogether. I had a salvaged one with a broken tab on it, so I made up for the broken tab with a 10-24 x 1" screw and another 10-24 aluminum threaded insert.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivvmeezyTXbIc3pO26p2YmU6tEkQ3zaMjCoIquzrQZXbqSSgBcRgygNyKwr56DU8LZUgzd5gv88eDKu_hf8EsvGsMiH-K7sujVldOSU71DUFzQD-qPAs6nMmMZ1Ye4FqRvtTGe7_nTrik/s1600/DSC01183+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivvmeezyTXbIc3pO26p2YmU6tEkQ3zaMjCoIquzrQZXbqSSgBcRgygNyKwr56DU8LZUgzd5gv88eDKu_hf8EsvGsMiH-K7sujVldOSU71DUFzQD-qPAs6nMmMZ1Ye4FqRvtTGe7_nTrik/s400/DSC01183+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
So there we are -- the mower is now a serviceable machine. I'll try peddling it on Kijiji come spring.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
# # #</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/p/commentscorrespondence.html">FEEDBACK</a></div>
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# # #</div>
Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-46494913282548196812019-11-04T16:29:00.000-05:002020-03-08T16:17:54.406-04:00A YARD MACHINES by MTD 4.5HP/21" Snow Thrower<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtdo0kWSJWrQNRAl5pVM8vGidal9mx7TW7I9SBiWZnwB8YJDXa99i-dS_EhnSh2xqlL9x3NynR_deAO8Wo_cnbMfM5gjAa-nLo6PbTXBasdUm3UrACHCZSpIpOkX_amsc5CUjmcXc8VIE/s1600/DSC01037+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtdo0kWSJWrQNRAl5pVM8vGidal9mx7TW7I9SBiWZnwB8YJDXa99i-dS_EhnSh2xqlL9x3NynR_deAO8Wo_cnbMfM5gjAa-nLo6PbTXBasdUm3UrACHCZSpIpOkX_amsc5CUjmcXc8VIE/s400/DSC01037+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
My son picked this up in working condition for $20.00 CDN. He's asked me to look it over before he tries flipping it for a profit.<br />
<br />
It's an MTD <span style="font-size: x-small;">MODEL</span> 31A-150-500. <span style="font-size: x-small;">MFG. CODE</span> 21-074-4411<br />
<br />
It's a single stage machine with a two-stroke engine. Fuel mix ratio is 50:1. There's a 120 VAC electric starter feature.<br />
<br />
Engine is a Tecumseh:<br />
<div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">ENGINE MODEL</span> HSK845 8204D (H)</li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">ENGINE FAMILY</span> VTP139UB25RA</li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">DISPLACEMENT</span> 139</li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">D.O.M.</span> 7254G</li>
</ul>
Let's have a look-see and discover what sort of condition the machine is in.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>A Motley Collection Of Auger Drive Cover Screws</b><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1L2SuY-F1cRg6Cs1AS_UbkeARjNDE0DKkiATC5fZ_QOmcxpBJJDK72Fem8Xx2LSAwDmlxTNN_Q77d_K7YQeA8Rf2UxgYZnEBdAMvRL_ii52j4OzVc9ELPMHK66RqZhViXP8bXP2blAhA/s1600/DSC01044+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1L2SuY-F1cRg6Cs1AS_UbkeARjNDE0DKkiATC5fZ_QOmcxpBJJDK72Fem8Xx2LSAwDmlxTNN_Q77d_K7YQeA8Rf2UxgYZnEBdAMvRL_ii52j4OzVc9ELPMHK66RqZhViXP8bXP2blAhA/s400/DSC01044+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The heads of the screws fastening the auger drive cover are all different. I'm almost afraid to discover what the screws' threads are. There's a cross-slot, a slot, a PoziDriv and a slotted hex head. there's one screw missing down below.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
The screws are a mixed bag -- mostly threading (sheet metal) screws. I think they should all be 1/4"-20, so I chased the holes with a tap, and now I've got uniform 1/4"-20 screw locations at all five places. I'll install 1/2" long hex socket head screws, split lockwashers and flat washers at final reassembly.<br />
<br />
<b>The Auger Drive</b><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimTUolvpk4OqECLhggMKDM_tNZE1706JyJpE697Z8450d4_g-kaCF4zHUmMuI4wZsYfWjZERMKTC1DiYWLV6cCvHny6SEtEwprUjfoewI6UisFDg8vt_0S2UtbbGtLX2gMWo7IHcI6Qtw/s1600/DSC01047+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimTUolvpk4OqECLhggMKDM_tNZE1706JyJpE697Z8450d4_g-kaCF4zHUmMuI4wZsYfWjZERMKTC1DiYWLV6cCvHny6SEtEwprUjfoewI6UisFDg8vt_0S2UtbbGtLX2gMWo7IHcI6Qtw/s400/DSC01047+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The V-belt looks to be more-or-less ok. The tension idler feels lubricant-starved. I'll take that off and oil it as best I can.<br />
<br />
<b>Belt Tension Adjustment</b><br />
<br />
The clutch control cable terminates in an extension spring that hooks onto the idler pulley bracket. There are three holes in the idler pulley bracket for the spring to hook into. The lowest hole affords the least belt tension. The two higher up holes afford progressively greater belt tension. Here's a view of that.<br />
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<br />
Note that the spring in the photo above is hooked into the lowest of the three holes, for least belt tension. That belt tension seemed marginal to me, so I hooked the spring into the middle hole.<br />
<br />
Note also the second extension spring higher up. That's the idler pulley bracket return spring. The spring seen in the photo is not factory -- it's someone's kludged replacement. The return spring is not supposed to be hooked into a tension spring hole; it's supposed to hook onto that notch in the bracket that's just below the tensioning spring holes. I don't have a better replacement for the return spring, so I'll just have to leave that be.<br />
<br />
<b>The Top Cover</b><br />
<br />
Remove nine threading screws to unfasten the top cover. Remove the fuel tank cap and the discharge chute's wingnut. The cover will be free to come away, though some forceful coaxing will be needed to get the cover past the exhaust pipe. Here's a view of the machine with the top cover off.<br />
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<br />
Note the electric starter motor directly below the muffler.<br />
<br />
<b>The Carburetor</b><br />
<br />
The carburetor is a float bowl type, with no adjustments aside from float level. The float bowl is readily accessible from below, as can be seen in the following photograph.<br />
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<br />
I took the float bowl off for inspection. (A 1/2" wrench is needed.) There was some sediment in the bowl that I rinsed out. Float level looked satisfactory.<br />
<br />
On reassembly, I ended up with a leak at the float bowl screw's gasket. The gasket is an ill-fitting thing. Reassembly and re-tightening solved the leak.<br />
<br />
<b>Carburetor Removal</b><br />
<br />
Carburetor removal on this machine looks like a nasty bit of business -- not to be undertaken without a pressing reason for it.<br />
<br />
It appears that in order to remove the carburetor, one must unfasten the dashboard to get it out of the way. Then, a ball-ended hex key might be needed to loosen off the carburetor's two fasteners, and I don't have any of those. Since this machine starts and runs satisfactorily, I'm going to leave well enough alone.<br />
<br />
<b>The Spark Plug</b><br />
<br />
The spark plug is accessible via a hole in the dashboard. The spark plug in this machine's engine is an NGK BPMR7A, with a 3/4" hex and a 0.025" gap. The plug shows some evidence of oil fouling, but is in good condition. (The oil fouling may be from having run with too oily a fuel mix.)<br />
<br />
<b>And That's It</b><br />
<br />
The machine starts and runs, and auger drive looks ok. It can go on Kijiji.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
* * *</div>
<br />
<b>Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">SATURDAY, MARCH 8, 2020</span><br />
<br />
I never did put the machine up for sale. Instead, I let it sit unused all winter under the carport. I tried starting it today and it was no go -- the machine absolutely refused to start.<br />
<br />
I dragged it into the workshop and checked for spark; that was ok. I uncovered the carburetor's intake and checked for priming. There was no evidence of priming spurts whatsoever. I upended the machine on the front of its auger housing and tried the primer bulb. Fuel emerged from around the float bowl's ring gasket. Bingo!<br />
<br />
That explained a lot. With the float bowl's ring gasket leaking, pressing the primer bulb only blew air past the ring gasket; the float bowl wasn't being pressurized so that fuel would be forced up the main jet into the venturi. The priming function was rendered inoperative by the leaky float bowl ring gasket.<br />
<br />
A replacement ring gasket solved the problem. A reminder that a small, normally invisible detail can disable an engine.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-28557690163898676372019-10-26T14:43:00.001-04:002019-10-27T08:59:55.877-04:00A McCulloch Model MT2026 Corded String Trimmer<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNOtwAcpBRgseA-Y3Nv4bvjPTAHgaOK-XegkkPJwzjEbodT40lGRYq4rpD7ZzeNmTY7WJXQToAeHgvTvd9cvjbi1ZSKyH7Uv-8mn4AtJ6SU87Dyl6T29v2AP6mffb5ekc7UWpgqwBSVBs/s1600/DSC00986+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNOtwAcpBRgseA-Y3Nv4bvjPTAHgaOK-XegkkPJwzjEbodT40lGRYq4rpD7ZzeNmTY7WJXQToAeHgvTvd9cvjbi1ZSKyH7Uv-8mn4AtJ6SU87Dyl6T29v2AP6mffb5ekc7UWpgqwBSVBs/s400/DSC00986+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
The trimmer hub is a disaster, and replacement parts are no longer available. There'll be no restoring this item to operability. I figure I'll take it to pieces just for the heckuvit. Maybe there'll be something of it that's worth salvaging.<br />
<br />
<b>The Hub</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYiZnEDJkMzZsjYVcEGYwld0DRZ5uIW-5USR3qLd7tnuvN0WnmeAcKw6z_O8uonq1S-gBgL35yCy9GhDcY-cXiAU54dcXAvFFmIDxUynMNbLSjnL8Psi95IOtKXu5zhrJIvO8J7s1kEMA/s1600/DSC00990+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYiZnEDJkMzZsjYVcEGYwld0DRZ5uIW-5USR3qLd7tnuvN0WnmeAcKw6z_O8uonq1S-gBgL35yCy9GhDcY-cXiAU54dcXAvFFmIDxUynMNbLSjnL8Psi95IOtKXu5zhrJIvO8J7s1kEMA/s400/DSC00990+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The hub's outer shell is a piece of wreckage. It appears that a repair to the torn out trimmer line exit holes has been attempted, to poor effect. The hub spring is an ill-fitting kludge -- not the original spring. I don't know what to make of the translucent sleeve over the trimmer line spool. How that arrangement could ever bump-feed trimmer line is beyond me.<br />
<br />
<b>The Business End</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3SefR-74MiRS9m7LFTp49RyOD9LL-SuFdSdrTa9xVMirCgrZtUnj5ZegNfdyKJJvKHdNqhwhpIPznQNKRHQI3TI_odHWfdGBBFovNOBf33CPwVP9jj5DE1YlRLvgpbBa_4-1fY-Wytw4/s1600/DSC00992+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3SefR-74MiRS9m7LFTp49RyOD9LL-SuFdSdrTa9xVMirCgrZtUnj5ZegNfdyKJJvKHdNqhwhpIPznQNKRHQI3TI_odHWfdGBBFovNOBf33CPwVP9jj5DE1YlRLvgpbBa_4-1fY-Wytw4/s400/DSC00992+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
There's a steel rod bail holding the safety guard in place. (The bail rod is 4mm diameter.) With that bail pried loose and removed, the safety guard can be removed. The motor housing can then be opened up.<br />
<br />
<b>Opening Up The Motor Housing</b><br />
<br />
The motor housing is fastened together by ten 4mm threading screws, No. 2 Phillips recess. One of the screws is concealed under the ID label. The two uppermost screws are 13mm long. The other eight screws are all 18 mm long.<br />
<br />
Opening up the motor housing reveals two prominent features of the machine -- the handle length adjuster and the motor itself.<br />
<br />
<b>Handle Length Adjuster</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitv2_v9IHP7VnxFwRwk1iffEga85wmzrZENkrSqhBHI5VVbqHpRSvmX3ukcf0IlDBJCm7pCrzO3Xxcsb9qpUAdA1nxYH1u87O8JOosPUYzhcdxq5YOlXVShtqKL4TIu5-frO9wWDRXczU/s1600/DSC00994+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitv2_v9IHP7VnxFwRwk1iffEga85wmzrZENkrSqhBHI5VVbqHpRSvmX3ukcf0IlDBJCm7pCrzO3Xxcsb9qpUAdA1nxYH1u87O8JOosPUYzhcdxq5YOlXVShtqKL4TIu5-frO9wWDRXczU/s400/DSC00994+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
There's a latch/detent affair that enables the handle shaft to have one of four different lengths. The length increments are just shy of one inch.<br />
<br />
The latch and the detent lever are spring loaded by coil springs. (I'll salvage the springs.) It's a diabolical thing to reassemble if it springs apart on you, which it's very likely to do.<br />
<br />
<b>The Motor</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLMJ5qHTlwQY19m8LXicNiM3hq81_7eFZWqzKlvvG06oTw2RzvIILvpOyYFwyxdK2dIaVgn4UB-qBjqpumjU5o_mGwLZW-OtVX07spWMcWB2_d79N75SuZqWL3U42tvnNe8fBTf2akG4/s1600/DSC00999+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLMJ5qHTlwQY19m8LXicNiM3hq81_7eFZWqzKlvvG06oTw2RzvIILvpOyYFwyxdK2dIaVgn4UB-qBjqpumjU5o_mGwLZW-OtVX07spWMcWB2_d79N75SuZqWL3U42tvnNe8fBTf2akG4/s400/DSC00999+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The motor is quite robust looking. (It still works, by the way.) Motor rating is 120 VAC, 3.2 A, 10,000 rpm.<br />
<br />
The motor mount bracket is fastened to the housing by two 4mm threading screws, No. 2 Phillips recess. That fan/hub on the output end of the motor appears to be press-fitted on. I can see no non-destructive way to remove it.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b>Motor Fan/Hub Removed</b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><br /></b></div>
</div>
I bored into the centre of the plastic fan/hub so I could get a puller's nose to contact the motor's shaft. That got the fan/hub started coming off. From there, I was able to pry the fan/hub off the rest of the way. Here's a view of the motor out of its housing along with its detached fan/hub.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSTBO8woVDxFQlEvQCDqQlGOIsm51g4BZ9gIWiwJaIro5hVL1oBSMGBNMHmDDbTg__Rj5Zt6vL3riW_5tUclDD54M6DtZimba68NKDj2Y5vdgaG8I84EGZB9iwKP6PMrzEmygaCfCMzuA/s1600/DSC01002+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSTBO8woVDxFQlEvQCDqQlGOIsm51g4BZ9gIWiwJaIro5hVL1oBSMGBNMHmDDbTg__Rj5Zt6vL3riW_5tUclDD54M6DtZimba68NKDj2Y5vdgaG8I84EGZB9iwKP6PMrzEmygaCfCMzuA/s400/DSC01002+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The motor's shaft is 8mm diameter, with splines that make for an interference fit with the fan/hub's bore. Shaft length is 15/16".<br />
<br />
I rigged the motor for a no load current draw measurement, and a photo-tachometer reading. I got about 650 mA at about 27,000 rpm. Evidently, the 3.2 A, 10,000 rpm rating represents full load values.<br />
<br />
Anyway, I now have a very nice little universal motor that I can think of no possible use for.<br />
<br />
<b>The Handgrips</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw3r_6r1XPI2WxbBerqL1lGgFDMay6RSPnA7e_fERj0_aQGCM9S3Lsr7WdiLVMdJutWRo4NNBOssSeM-XMoaXCTuyNAEfKVVhNtKjiBU7DKmQGXqp__xtSAzbnociqKRvktO_bBarH0Jo/s1600/DSC01003+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw3r_6r1XPI2WxbBerqL1lGgFDMay6RSPnA7e_fERj0_aQGCM9S3Lsr7WdiLVMdJutWRo4NNBOssSeM-XMoaXCTuyNAEfKVVhNtKjiBU7DKmQGXqp__xtSAzbnociqKRvktO_bBarH0Jo/s400/DSC01003+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The lower handgrip is fastened by a single M6 x 52mm carriage bolt and wingnut. There's a flat washer under the wingnut.<br />
<br />
The upper handgrip is held together by six 4mm threading screws, No. 2 Phillips recess. The two screws nearest the trigger are 13mm long; the remaining four screws are 18mm long<br />
<br />
<b>The Trigger Switch</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxB9GRuJwLNUvFOzYUlZpQaPf-wIHFlV1DdhjcizCYgiehIZPcLPgy_0AvXoNrPkEBfvcSeTSJ8gVq0f4MDwz5QuuXi_R15GQBUJ8V4Gf624tpodJrL4MaHPYCPxMfLU2SVEOo8SUAn3g/s1600/DSC01008+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxB9GRuJwLNUvFOzYUlZpQaPf-wIHFlV1DdhjcizCYgiehIZPcLPgy_0AvXoNrPkEBfvcSeTSJ8gVq0f4MDwz5QuuXi_R15GQBUJ8V4Gf624tpodJrL4MaHPYCPxMfLU2SVEOo8SUAn3g/s400/DSC01008+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The red trigger acts on a momentary slide switch. The slide switch is made by <a href="http://www.defondgroup.com/">Defond</a>. It's rated at 11 A, 125 VAC, 5.5 A, 250 VAC. Its terminals are 3/16" male spade terminals.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
So there we have it -- the whole thing dismantled. Here's what all I salvaged:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Three compression springs.</li>
<li>Motor.</li>
<li>Slide switch.</li>
<li>An M6 x 52mm carriage bolt with wingnut and flat washer.</li>
<li>A 25 1/4" length of 7/8" diameter steel tubing.</li>
</ul>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-62680143168341647222019-10-22T14:56:00.002-04:002019-10-22T15:00:26.473-04:00Some Dollar Store Tools<br />
The local Dollarama store has some remarkably neat stuff.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMrUEYz2EkPgXHbJ6SYeK5C0a-wNLRoogXkn7XZnrQZn05wUGmc_IHL-eQkkGp7yjcAXQALl0iH3lFxB7Z9SKjBCE7rnFScnsISb-gnuXlwAzAWd5Mbw7d-Z0vcy0AD7jaP_YZVlgu7EM/s1600/DSC00980+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMrUEYz2EkPgXHbJ6SYeK5C0a-wNLRoogXkn7XZnrQZn05wUGmc_IHL-eQkkGp7yjcAXQALl0iH3lFxB7Z9SKjBCE7rnFScnsISb-gnuXlwAzAWd5Mbw7d-Z0vcy0AD7jaP_YZVlgu7EM/s400/DSC00980+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The 9mm utility knives are excellent; they even have spare blade storage for two spare blades.<br />
<br />
I was only in the store for the sake of the knives, then the screwdriver and bit set caught my eye. I'm a sucker for such things, so I figured I could gamble $4.00 CDN + HST. There's no exchange or return at the Dollarama, so I'm hoping that the screwdriver bits are the real deal -- not overly brittle or soft. We'll see.<br />
<br />
The socket wrenches are all metric -- 4mm to 14mm. The handle would really be something if it had ratchets, but it doesn't. The handle attaches to the shank in either a 'T' or an 'L' configuration. The 'L' configuration should provide an abundance of turning force.<br />
<br />
'Looking forward to having need of the set.<br />
<br />
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# # #</div>Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-66681951162438605072019-10-18T17:31:00.000-04:002019-10-22T13:50:05.979-04:00Another Poulan 260 PRO 42cc 18" Chainsaw<br />
My <a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/2019/05/a-poulan-260-pro-42cc-18-chainsaw.html">last attempt at getting one of these running</a> was a washout.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoDdt6dQlJMqHQ4Y0R3VwIJShbyMrCcigqRH5ge320lVZQf8Zgk62oGqF-03-o9ztybFMV-yvS7I0aG2lu5oSNoZ2GvtiqLtylSMuCejnqtnSLhAcWhD9Ym32nk3FFFosExiW_tHRpbE/s1600/DSC00957+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoDdt6dQlJMqHQ4Y0R3VwIJShbyMrCcigqRH5ge320lVZQf8Zgk62oGqF-03-o9ztybFMV-yvS7I0aG2lu5oSNoZ2GvtiqLtylSMuCejnqtnSLhAcWhD9Ym32nk3FFFosExiW_tHRpbE/s400/DSC00957+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We'll see how I make out with this one. It's another machine that was given to me by the small engines place that I frequent. It's a saw that wasn't worth the shop's while to repair, so the owner just abandoned it. It's in pretty rough shape by the looks of it -- the chain appears to be off its sprocket and jammed. I'll want to attend to that first thing.<br />
<br />
I'd really like to get this saw going. I have three sickly cedar trees at the foot of my backyard that need to come down.<br />
<br />
Anyway, here's the saw's ID label data:<br />
<br />
FAMILY 2000US EPA PH1<br />
YPWES.0424CS:EM<br />
DISP. 42CC<br />
SERIAL # 00075D 100235-3<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Jammed Chain</b><br />
<br />
Clutch/sprocket/bar access is by way of a single cover that's held on by the two bar clamp nuts. The nuts are hex washerface items, M8 x 1.25, 13mm A/F (across flats). Note that the chain brake must be disengaged in order for the cover to be removable.<br />
<br />
The chain on this saw may have been run out of oil -- it had many seized links that wouldn't traverse around the sprocket without jamming. With penetrating oil and a good deal of persuasion, I've gotten the chain to where it will traverse complete circuits. On with examination of the saw.<br />
<br />
<b>Bar Oil Reservoir</b><br />
<br />
It's bone dry. That may explain a lot. I won't fill it unless and until I can get the engine to run.<br />
<br />
<b>Fuel Tank</b><br />
<br />
There's some fuel in it. The fuel takeup tube is iffy, but its filter is still in place..<br />
<br />
<b>Top Cover Removal</b><br />
<br />
Three obvious screws, T25 Torx recess.<br />
<br />
<b>Spark Plug</b><br />
<br />
The spark plug had been installed <i>very</i> tightly. I had to take an impact wrench to it to get it loose.<br />
<br />
It's a Champion RCJ7Y. It's a bit sooty, but not in bad condition at all. Hex is 3/4" A/F. Gap is a loose 0.025". A spark test revealed that I do have spark.<br />
<br />
<b>Priming</b><br />
<br />
The primer bulb is a bit stiff, but it appears to be intact. The thing won't prime, though.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Problems/Solutions</b>:<br />
<ul>
<li>A stiff metering diaphragm. The diaphragm in my scrapped Poulan 260 PRO was ok, so I swapped diaphragms.</li>
<li>Embrittled fuel line tubing. The fuel takeup tube looks to be virtually impossible to replace by squeezing it through its hole in the top of the fuel tank. I drilled out that hole to 5/32" diameter so I could slip-fit a replacement tube through. The tube's interface with the fuel tank is no longer fluid-tight, but the arrangement will get me going.</li>
<li>The bar and chain are past it. The bar and chain on my scrapped saw are good, so I swapped the bar and chain.</li>
</ul>
<div>
And after all that, I'm still getting nowhere. I can't get the saw to start, and I'm getting weary of putting in seemingly futile effort.</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">MONDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2019</span><br />
<br />
My son pointed out to me that I have plenty of time on my hands. So, I decided to return to the chainsaw and keep on attempting to get it running, however futile the attempt might be.<br />
<br />
After an outrageous amount of fiddling, I got the thing to run for awhile. Now I'm back to being unable to start it again. It's exhibiting high compression -- compression so high that I can't get a decent pull on the starter cord. 'Next visit to the small engines place in Pickering, I'll ask about that. I'm hoping that they'll have an answer.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Further Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">TUESDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2019</span><br />
<br />
I took the saw with me to Pickering yesterday to show it to the senior man at the shop. He deemed the saw to be normal. So, I have to confess that the problem is not excessive compression; the problem is my lack of upper body strength. When I got the saw home, I rigged a method whereby I could get both feet holding the saw down while I tugged on the starter cord with both hands. That got the saw started. Here's a view of my 'both feet' rig.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig_Uu4nU4f4zM41QcfJ5EDTZny1O_iINzYKtkLqoFM2JjeQMn6lR5I0NPuQVZAoVeL_91qyyYc7cJ8Pg7CThV2ZsCGurpw7F8Lq60zFyJwR7GgfifOLi4_fNL69qAajjdWaLjEzj0GQJE/s1600/DSC00976+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig_Uu4nU4f4zM41QcfJ5EDTZny1O_iINzYKtkLqoFM2JjeQMn6lR5I0NPuQVZAoVeL_91qyyYc7cJ8Pg7CThV2ZsCGurpw7F8Lq60zFyJwR7GgfifOLi4_fNL69qAajjdWaLjEzj0GQJE/s400/DSC00976+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Right foot goes in the handle as per usual; left foot goes on the stick of wood. I can hoist the starter cord's handle with both hands, and away we go.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
I got my three ailing cedar trees taken down and limbed. Cutting up the trunks will have to keep for another day; it's raining today.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-53077228564725385382019-09-24T13:23:00.000-04:002019-09-27T13:44:06.550-04:00Roadside Find -- A Sears Craftsman 21" Rear-Bagging Lawnmower<br />
My wife found this lawnmower just up the street while out walking with our granddaughter and hauled it home for me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdNtZ1JB1kP7HzJfk91igu6DBuNc9TiG2gboxJuLqauOcSMaZvmvbX7irEWTriAimC2Z1RgnLpiy51jeti__viI5ba9NljI1NBPmS9LslLhWyMJmLn_joMLNOQnB8Z_TLGVhkmjXuJsZY/s1600/DSC00897+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdNtZ1JB1kP7HzJfk91igu6DBuNc9TiG2gboxJuLqauOcSMaZvmvbX7irEWTriAimC2Z1RgnLpiy51jeti__viI5ba9NljI1NBPmS9LslLhWyMJmLn_joMLNOQnB8Z_TLGVhkmjXuJsZY/s400/DSC00897+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
It's a Sears Canada Model 944.364372, Serial No. 050905M 005419. Engine is a Briggs & Stratton 6.75 MRS (Most Reliable Starting). No. 125K-0506-E1 05041258. (I don't know what to make of "6.75" -- evidently the engine has 6.75 of something, but there's no indication of what.)<br />
<br />
The mower looks to be in not bad condition. The deck shows no rust bubbling up, and the safety bail is operative. Let's take a tour and see what's up with it.<br />
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<b>Muffler</b><br />
<br />
An obvious fault is that the muffler is missing one of its two attachment screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_bzs3o2aii6mFe99-s5KkFWauoJSDSPQySxfIuQjLmpy7sHexMk-j9hgFic91xBuMcyeiJA8vGmubF3u0p-6iBBlUGfzMDuvVrLFrV6OeGUNhrjV7FW_G1QdFhbg2bEi1NFDd6bPHkIk/s1600/DSC00900+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_bzs3o2aii6mFe99-s5KkFWauoJSDSPQySxfIuQjLmpy7sHexMk-j9hgFic91xBuMcyeiJA8vGmubF3u0p-6iBBlUGfzMDuvVrLFrV6OeGUNhrjV7FW_G1QdFhbg2bEi1NFDd6bPHkIk/s400/DSC00900+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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That will likely call for a trip to the small engines place in Pickering, if I can't kludge a replacement.<br />
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<b>Muffler Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2019</span><br />
<br />
The small engines place fixed me up with a salvaged screw. Here's a view of the complete fastener complement for the muffler.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQGOmufpkCcTzQgLbtvIer_EsSs1hoOYLdfYsKPiLY0JwgXEpLngPZdhxayDBD8vE0pZgkQhAhSEEqHXp66mTa3GVWOyxOkgNnKBes4E43_ynN5ERkaT1KDrQUH5l71CEwfVbVBZGu1A/s1600/DSC00914+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQGOmufpkCcTzQgLbtvIer_EsSs1hoOYLdfYsKPiLY0JwgXEpLngPZdhxayDBD8vE0pZgkQhAhSEEqHXp66mTa3GVWOyxOkgNnKBes4E43_ynN5ERkaT1KDrQUH5l71CEwfVbVBZGu1A/s400/DSC00914+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The screws have 2 1/4" long, 3/8" diameter shoulders, with 1/2" long, 1/4"-20 threaded ends. The hex heads are 7/16" A/F (across flats).<br />
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And here's the completed muffler installation, with the keeper ends cinched. (I applied anti-seize compound to the screws' threads.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy889TyCrfxenlMasGWN6stdN_AHXZwpBJzZbmHNi8DnnSdkR2QcifR0HxgJvCIUbvhkwpHgNbsIvOx2ocBMqRIv5EcA9Fnmqun10FZHGQ8B0LHoStvPweD3o5y46tM2rGvR1tGLyL5cM/s1600/DSC00925+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy889TyCrfxenlMasGWN6stdN_AHXZwpBJzZbmHNi8DnnSdkR2QcifR0HxgJvCIUbvhkwpHgNbsIvOx2ocBMqRIv5EcA9Fnmqun10FZHGQ8B0LHoStvPweD3o5y46tM2rGvR1tGLyL5cM/s400/DSC00925+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Much better.<br />
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<b>Oil</b><br />
<br />
The oil looks reasonably clean, but it measures way overfull on the dipstick -- overfull enough that I'll want to siphon some out if I can get the machine running.<br />
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Sump capacity is 591 ml or 20 US fluid ounces.<br />
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<b>Oil Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2019</span><br />
<br />
My siphoning rig's pickup tube wouldn't fit down the dipstick hole. The idea of tipping the entire machine to drain out oil didn't appeal to me, so I've left the engine overfull with oil. It doesn't blow smoke when it's running, so it should be ok with that.<br />
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<b>Fuel</b><br />
<br />
The tank looks empty. On the fuel tank's cap there's written "FRESH START CONTINUOUS FUEL PRESERVER". On the underside of the cap there's a little vial affair attached that says "REPLACE WHEN EMPTY", like so.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZgHsUvr2dZyhvFFlw7hv_ZQA1CKs1WocZwNdJQvwSfvSYahBzyUXFzAf7dik073T0C5ltRsWpQOpUERgqV0roDJXr4UtGYvQJdayMI8Sq-B_ADq8UCG3dJQu5SkaP-STBpwl57s1sylg/s1600/DSC00901+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZgHsUvr2dZyhvFFlw7hv_ZQA1CKs1WocZwNdJQvwSfvSYahBzyUXFzAf7dik073T0C5ltRsWpQOpUERgqV0roDJXr4UtGYvQJdayMI8Sq-B_ADq8UCG3dJQu5SkaP-STBpwl57s1sylg/s400/DSC00901+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It looks empty to me. I guess it had fuel stabilizer in it that's dispensed at some slow rate. That feature is a new one on me; I've never seen it before.<br />
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<b>Blade</b><br />
<br />
The blade is on the right way around, and it doesn't appear to be distorted, or badly nicked and dull. A sharpening will be in order, though. The blade screw's hex head takes a 9/16" wrench.<br />
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<b>Spark Plug</b><br />
<br />
The spark plug is a Champion RJ19HX. Hex size is 13/16" A/F. (An acceptable substitute for the RJ19HX is RJ19LM.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgltVayK-OS3E8VSwFfQ9dvPb0W4OLedFdqT6iVOJDiaNpeArB02hv16SBQwXbqVKsLK-QKpa53LwRa1z54upyxYAmSJc4GC2-ZoGLWvRaXsQzTjz-dkmA9qrbrAVXkBABn6mWB3zFnvoE/s1600/DSC00909+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgltVayK-OS3E8VSwFfQ9dvPb0W4OLedFdqT6iVOJDiaNpeArB02hv16SBQwXbqVKsLK-QKpa53LwRa1z54upyxYAmSJc4GC2-ZoGLWvRaXsQzTjz-dkmA9qrbrAVXkBABn6mWB3zFnvoE/s400/DSC00909+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
It's in reasonably good condition. Gap is a snug 0.030", as it should be.<br />
<br />
A <a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/2019/05/a-small-engine-spark-tester.html">spark test</a> revealed that there is spark, so there's hope for the engine.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<b>Compression</b><br />
<br />
Compression measures 60 psi, which in my experience is fairly typical for well used mower engines. The engine should still have plenty of useable life in it.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<b>Air Filter</b><br />
<br />
Loosening off a single, captive 5/16" A/F hex head screw gives access to the air filter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg66FlnXaz5gYDLTqtgM9JvOcLmB65US9C46fRKodsWhY6vdW8hCUBZEILlPIuxsRvgqNkMTKFx-Pn9trOXT2O4sAd3fRJ-g3quRHL_JyLBXi8xLah2kgeFHXrWMHj9SfUzEM01RF-ILE/s1600/DSC00912+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg66FlnXaz5gYDLTqtgM9JvOcLmB65US9C46fRKodsWhY6vdW8hCUBZEILlPIuxsRvgqNkMTKFx-Pn9trOXT2O4sAd3fRJ-g3quRHL_JyLBXi8xLah2kgeFHXrWMHj9SfUzEM01RF-ILE/s400/DSC00912+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
This one is pretty dirty. A replacement is in order. (Replacement filter P/N is 491588.)<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<b>Fueled Up And It's No Go</b><br />
<br />
I took the air filter off so I could observe carburetor priming, and nothing happens. There's no evidence of fuel being pushed up out of the main jet when the primer bulb is pressed. The engine won't start. So, the carburetor has to come off for inspection.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<b>Carburetor Removal</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Air cleaner cover and filter element.</li>
<li>Small black cover above the air filter -- one pan head No. 2 Phillips recess screw, 10-32 x 13/16".</li>
<li>Air cleaner base -- three hex washerhead screws, 10-32 x 5/8", 5/16" A/F. Note the gasket, which will likely remain stuck to the carburetor. Note also the crankcase ventilation tube to be reconnected at reassembly.</li>
<li>Fuel supply tube at carburetor -- one spring clamp. Be ready with a suitable plug to plug the end of the tube. A bit of 5/16" diameter rod, or the shank end of a 5/16" drill will do nicely.</li>
<li>Carburetor -- two hex washerhead screws, 1/4"-20 x 5/8", 3/8" A/F. Unhook the governor link. Note the O-ring at the intake tube. That O-ring must be in place and intact.</li>
</ul>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<b>The Carburetor</b><br />
<br />
The carburetor is an ultra simple float bowl type, having no adjustments. There's no idle circuit to get clogged up; there's only the main jet that's easily checked for clogs.<br />
<br />
To remove the float bowl, use a 1/2" socket wrench on the bowl's fastener. The float bowl on my carburetor was clean and free of debris.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<b>The Primer Circuit</b><br />
<br />
Some study of the air cleaner base and its gasket will reveal the operation of the primer circuit. Pressing the primer bulb closes off the bulb's vent hole, and forces air through a channel in the air cleaner base. Priming air is ultimately delivered to the carburetor via a small orifice at one side of the carburetor's mouth. From there, air is channeled within the carburetor to the float bowl, where it forces a dollop of fuel up the main jet and into the carburetor's throat.<br />
<br />
Given that the primer bulb is sound, priming failure is most likely due to poor seating of the air cleaner base to its gasket and the carburetor's mouth. The integrity of that seating is absolutely crucial to primer operation. Replace the gasket if in doubt.<br />
<br />
On my engine, the primer resumed working after I reinstalled the air cleaner base on the carburetor. The engine became startable. Something must have been amiss with the seating of the air cleaner base.<br />
<br />
The engine ran poorly with the air filter element installed; the air filter element is evidently badly clogged. The engine runs fine with the air filter element removed.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>Update</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">THUR</span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">SDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2019</span><br />
<br />
With a new filter element installed, the engine runs fine. I've never seen a filter element so badly clogged as the one that was on this engine.<br />
<br />
Further to the matter of the air cleaner base gasket, I obtained and installed a new gasket (P/N 795629), and that didn't work -- with the new gasket, I had no priming. Reinstalling the old gasket restored priming. Here's a view of the inboard side of the air cleaner base, and the two gaskets.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgkcxXN_X8-GW5wrNMi2m1FvkTzofIApewZr6Toe93oPwhSewZ2kxzZsJTc_oB-oeP8IGby3UPZ6uag2Sj_-HS21Un8ve5L0CaDEW_MBnAx9kuD4EgkEe8-Sv15CRnLeN9XRJ_cwIM-s/s1600/DSC00918+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgkcxXN_X8-GW5wrNMi2m1FvkTzofIApewZr6Toe93oPwhSewZ2kxzZsJTc_oB-oeP8IGby3UPZ6uag2Sj_-HS21Un8ve5L0CaDEW_MBnAx9kuD4EgkEe8-Sv15CRnLeN9XRJ_cwIM-s/s400/DSC00918+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The old gasket that works is at the left; the new gasket that doesn't work is at the right.<br />
<br />
On the old gasket, note the full impression made in the gasket's surface by the priming air channel's ridges. That gasket fully seals the priming air channel; hence, priming is enabled.<br />
<br />
On the new gasket, there's little impression from the priming air channel's ridges. The air channel leaks, and priming doesn't happen.<br />
<br />
The fault lies in the design of the air cleaner base's fastening scheme, and the non-rigidity of the air cleaner base. The gasket doesn't get squeezed with uniform pressure all the way along the length of the air channel.<br />
<br />
Maybe if I left the new gasket in place for long enough, the gasket would get squeezed sufficiently that it would seal the air channel. Another solution might be to install the gasket with a smear of silicone gasket maker.<br />
<br />
Anyway, for now I've left the old gasket in place, ragged though it is.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
- - -</div>
<br />
<b>In Conclusion</b><br />
<br />
The lawnmower was discarded on account of two minor faults that had a big impact on the machine's behaviour. The leaky primer circuit was causing failure to start, and the clogged air filter made for very poor engine performance when I did get it running.<br />
<br />
I attribute the leaky primer circuit to questionable design. The clogged air filter was just neglect of routine maintenance.<br />
<br />
With attention paid to those two faults, I've got a perfectly serviceable lawnmower, with plenty of life left in it.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-6376270470326691352019-08-20T17:50:00.000-04:002019-08-20T17:50:21.284-04:00A Marble Vessel With A Broken Lid<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkpvMKMg3ru1oSdp0NJu0sMcOo4e4SYF23MZvazGJs1KBv7uJFXSNArrGO1z_PGN4qQIScEB-wFYzT4xpacVORil8-tg9NrHLcv3Z62Hw1mzt49tXnHb1q0TBLHEWQr82IdLCD_QCT8o/s1600/DSC00886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkpvMKMg3ru1oSdp0NJu0sMcOo4e4SYF23MZvazGJs1KBv7uJFXSNArrGO1z_PGN4qQIScEB-wFYzT4xpacVORil8-tg9NrHLcv3Z62Hw1mzt49tXnHb1q0TBLHEWQr82IdLCD_QCT8o/s400/DSC00886.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div>
At least, I take it to be marble. It's quite a nice little item -- about four inches in diameter by about four inches tall.<br />
<br />
My wife tells me that the lid just spontaneously split in two; it wasn't dropped. Internal stress resolving itself, possibly.<br />
<br />
Anyway, a fix was in order. The break was quite clean, so the two pieces of the lid fit back together nicely. A bead of gelled <a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/2010/01/ca-cyanoacrylate-adhesive.html">CA adhesive </a>served to adhere the two pieces back together. At the lid's underside, I ran a bead of runny CA adhesive along the seam to further reinforce the repair. And that did it. Here's the vessel with its lid back together and in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTEx7bGwjFmP3Z-ZtGy29Y2zETj6VbjkeOYa4tUdsTdmxoS0gsQTZrrx8l1eSQ7rzwFgXL82NSSDtcOKOKweH6iMUefGyFVMf3GVynpDVAXXAHyK56PAzf1jI9i4MUTNXY3CX76L2OVU/s1600/DSC00887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTEx7bGwjFmP3Z-ZtGy29Y2zETj6VbjkeOYa4tUdsTdmxoS0gsQTZrrx8l1eSQ7rzwFgXL82NSSDtcOKOKweH6iMUefGyFVMf3GVynpDVAXXAHyK56PAzf1jI9i4MUTNXY3CX76L2OVU/s400/DSC00887.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The repair's appearance is not seamless; one will always be to see where the lid broke in two. I see no solution to that. At least, the vessel is fully serviceable again.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-77529766403771631582019-07-30T17:28:00.000-04:002019-08-01T13:49:32.161-04:00Crappy Grinding Stones From Amazon<br />
I got this set of twenty grinding stones from a Chinese Amazon vendor recently.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh04lAN6lGSC_7NVmtskkTifN0hFWBZHBhzsFk3XISSqeowyC3KzPxpBJmdyOQIuFLv6pBGkNJrSNR4-M5Wb-yh1gm-lvrRffzjcmqJ3kIpTYnzA4CNXp6TJuis2ykPZMHOn9MPl2t7reA/s1600/DSC00871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh04lAN6lGSC_7NVmtskkTifN0hFWBZHBhzsFk3XISSqeowyC3KzPxpBJmdyOQIuFLv6pBGkNJrSNR4-M5Wb-yh1gm-lvrRffzjcmqJ3kIpTYnzA4CNXp6TJuis2ykPZMHOn9MPl2t7reA/s400/DSC00871.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Diameters are approximately 16mm, 20mm, 24mm and 30mm. I thought they'd be just the thing to go with my new <a href="http://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/2019/05/tool-review-14-corded-die-grinder.html">1/4" die grinder</a> for sharpening lawnmower blades. Was I ever wrong.<br />
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The shanks were described variously as 1/4" diameter and 6mm diameter. I queried that, and was assured that the shanks were 1/4" diameter. It turns out that they're 6mm diameter. So, right off the bat the things are worthless -- a 1/4" collet will not close down on a 6mm shank.<br />
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And to cap it off, the stones are badly mounted and don't run true. Here's a little video clip of one stone turning in a wood lathe at 500 rpm.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwXBoEYoWV_bQROIj30C3JmjoMpZ-o2nOCt4Omh14Ly_wkJl0EwBEw3Mltb_d9l0uis06qqJ61gPTTToIQRaA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Imagine that wobble running at 20,000 rpm.<br />
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I complained to the vendor and got my money refunded. So I'm now the owner of a worthless set of grinding stones.<br />
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It's appalling some of the stuff that Amazon will sell.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-57479944028456614932019-07-29T16:55:00.001-04:002019-07-31T14:17:28.496-04:00A Chimes Candy Tin<br />
['Scraping the bottom of the barrel for subject matter here. The workshop has run into the doldrums.]<br />
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Things have a way of just showing up out of nowhere. Here's a Chimes candy <a href="https://www.thefreedictionary.com/tin">tin</a> that did just that recently.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijTJRxN3yhNuRfwpQdf36ys1aVRbynels8Wnxq0I5AlIjnry2jz_fmPg5cttsXpT9Fve14uEAbTCuBwdkbsQqtc45YeoTf07CSPbirATYmvf_ZXcuA6ge_1L7JSmgZqOZzj1n1ClJaakI/s1600/DSC00860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijTJRxN3yhNuRfwpQdf36ys1aVRbynels8Wnxq0I5AlIjnry2jz_fmPg5cttsXpT9Fve14uEAbTCuBwdkbsQqtc45YeoTf07CSPbirATYmvf_ZXcuA6ge_1L7JSmgZqOZzj1n1ClJaakI/s400/DSC00860.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The tin is approximately 3 1/4" tall x 2 1/4" wide x 1" from front to back. <br />
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And here's a view of it with its lid slid open.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9aElZvjlO0I80cjW9pmFMEiWIVbu6x6pHpcUphHopzwkkBPYytPToxJHQa_imgv656KCtk2M55TPHuGLUlEakZbCIDSU_ToyIl3F8HmyeRK1ryOCK1tXwHKnfgknFHO7w2DD3WnOLYY/s1600/DSC00861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9aElZvjlO0I80cjW9pmFMEiWIVbu6x6pHpcUphHopzwkkBPYytPToxJHQa_imgv656KCtk2M55TPHuGLUlEakZbCIDSU_ToyIl3F8HmyeRK1ryOCK1tXwHKnfgknFHO7w2DD3WnOLYY/s400/DSC00861.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And three more views.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8iktVVoaoZP-bJAisGOJ7tbaWDzfGMPkb1JjjEDN6nBjsqhvH3nHjpiKYCOh0bKXNbpoMZVuKW11YqFbu1wM_3YxSGrqzE5vogVtG-nbPyZ1x3wLM-8Rno4wOzlk_PFI6BRklwChjMJM/s1600/DSC00862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8iktVVoaoZP-bJAisGOJ7tbaWDzfGMPkb1JjjEDN6nBjsqhvH3nHjpiKYCOh0bKXNbpoMZVuKW11YqFbu1wM_3YxSGrqzE5vogVtG-nbPyZ1x3wLM-8Rno4wOzlk_PFI6BRklwChjMJM/s400/DSC00862.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsjF-efX_WtIWSff5C-DB5oeyyT_VCSGzyIQ6IkUXFGIITWIwb115_xs3nUh2rvUhd8NuWAwFZhlci1Msii8gu5oxPvAdVRSeEAbLDj82kycLS9divAjB4dEGPaG27yeYxuL15ZiAlKCM/s1600/DSC00863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsjF-efX_WtIWSff5C-DB5oeyyT_VCSGzyIQ6IkUXFGIITWIwb115_xs3nUh2rvUhd8NuWAwFZhlci1Msii8gu5oxPvAdVRSeEAbLDj82kycLS9divAjB4dEGPaG27yeYxuL15ZiAlKCM/s400/DSC00863.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK8QUKZQ6Ttrf5D194ar3Xpbi5Qw3yFEO9w_ue6k9ZyicgbFduqCxSwPCvsAiOFnJqai1prPWL8dSBgEgwCA7cGMrUu2IhCccWUkhKVjYWCdHocC8rhBLORieWKo6RndbCvBlOy9l0ASY/s1600/DSC00864.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK8QUKZQ6Ttrf5D194ar3Xpbi5Qw3yFEO9w_ue6k9ZyicgbFduqCxSwPCvsAiOFnJqai1prPWL8dSBgEgwCA7cGMrUu2IhCccWUkhKVjYWCdHocC8rhBLORieWKo6RndbCvBlOy9l0ASY/s400/DSC00864.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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It seems that <a href="http://www.chimesgourmet.com/">Chimes</a> is still a going concern in Indonesia.<br />
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On the bottom of the tin, there's a "BEST BY" date of 2014/10/05.<br />
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The tin is an exquisite bit of fabrication. I'd love to see how these things are made with such perfection.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-26296306049442097792019-07-24T11:42:00.003-04:002019-07-25T13:08:39.329-04:00A Shakespeare Autowinder II Bump Head Installation<br />
I have an elderly <a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/2019/05/a-homelite-trimlite-string-trimmer.html">Homelite TrimLite string trimmer</a> that's in need of some new bump head parts. Trying to obtain those parts has proven to be an exercise in futility, so I went to Canadian Tire and got myself a new after-market complete bump head, a Shakespeare Autowinder II.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1_qUulApwCDZmtbVWP8GD7wiVmpC_CaVqrQwhWeUcvc7HRsT5db6MIBsw5VKa6U8ZrUmI3iq_KnQpRWhr82AFPuRtp3-85LfnuciYMa1YKvgsmEIPPn16_guaCJmufrKQYU2WQqwwhcs/s1600/DSC00853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1_qUulApwCDZmtbVWP8GD7wiVmpC_CaVqrQwhWeUcvc7HRsT5db6MIBsw5VKa6U8ZrUmI3iq_KnQpRWhr82AFPuRtp3-85LfnuciYMa1YKvgsmEIPPn16_guaCJmufrKQYU2WQqwwhcs/s400/DSC00853.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's supposedly a universal fit item that will work on the Homelite. I have my doubts. We'll see.<br />
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I'm going to try to open the package ever so carefully, so if the thing doesn't work out I can reseal it and maybe return it.<br />
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<b>The Trimmer's Original Head</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjql0kClLm1Oj4_SUi7_4NeRbIT4ZtA2_uK6jO2tZvik6nNUz5WFjYo_t-wphkgM_adeeXljb4ZI53L6kpDx9QmLb6bfDTYEqmk6Kh4Ye6a2_3Wwgl7fge0r_CSSUn8VssmfwhHw6OblsE/s1600/DSC00848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjql0kClLm1Oj4_SUi7_4NeRbIT4ZtA2_uK6jO2tZvik6nNUz5WFjYo_t-wphkgM_adeeXljb4ZI53L6kpDx9QmLb6bfDTYEqmk6Kh4Ye6a2_3Wwgl7fge0r_CSSUn8VssmfwhHw6OblsE/s400/DSC00848.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The trouble with the original head is that the bumper is almost worn out, and it's missing its spring. I found a spring that fits, but it's not forceful enough. A proper replacement spring seems to be unavailable. The bumper can be had (the small engines place has a couple in stock), but the price is nearly that of the Shakespeare replacement head.<br />
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It looks to me that the distance from the trimmer line to the guard is a fairly critical dimension. It currently measures 2 3/16". We'll see if that dimension more-or-less holds for the Shakespeare replacement.<br />
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<b>The Kit Unpacked</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Pt9dbX272ra3quMujecYQri2ArOFlS_6XFwNNUUZTx6J19SpAzJs1l8EKPN2j0_w4eBHcm4tpZ-v-KGVA2ruSwixMaxQL58OCJWV5ojrGO-L3-0dzTnMtTpdk1nJZJrLjCO4dTM3mXc/s1600/DSC00856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Pt9dbX272ra3quMujecYQri2ArOFlS_6XFwNNUUZTx6J19SpAzJs1l8EKPN2j0_w4eBHcm4tpZ-v-KGVA2ruSwixMaxQL58OCJWV5ojrGO-L3-0dzTnMtTpdk1nJZJrLjCO4dTM3mXc/s400/DSC00856.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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There's the hub, a plastic spacer washer and a bag with many hexagonal adapters and screws and a steel flat washer. Not shown is an instruction sheet in three languages.<br />
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The unit comes without trimmer line installed! I call that cheap and sleazy. (According to the instruction sheet, 0.080", 0.095" or 0.105" line can be used.)<br />
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<b>Nope</b><br />
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I looked into the installation instructions and all the adapters, and I'm calling hogwash. I have no faith whatsoever that this thing can be satisfactorily installed on my Homelite trimmer, and yield satisfactory performance. I'll repackage it as best I can and try to return it.<br />
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<b>Returned</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">THURSDAY, JULY 25, 2019</span><br />
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My repackaging worked out ok, and Canadian Tire took it back with no hassle. I'll look into obtaining a spring from an American on-line parts dealer.<br />
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<b>Can't Win For Losing</b><br />
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Shipping from the States would be $22.99 US -- not on.<br />
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To be continued.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-2322799516644506212019-07-23T14:15:00.001-04:002019-07-23T14:25:06.371-04:00A Mastercraft Work Stand's Vise Screw Lash<br />
I have an elderly Canadian Tire Mastercraft work stand that has a couple of vise screw peculiarities.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvJUwAeeX9qWci040xN-5gu7pd1KVIbS-YDvmAI5PdMVI4rEWYjQOMB4-_ZyTOqOiNyS5ENTBmOb_vPkcUN2eP04tHrgAe9SBEFwl_3VHx-WhrU-M6tw1szJKTYhbRoVifvWPAYbcHhNQ/s1600/DSC00819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvJUwAeeX9qWci040xN-5gu7pd1KVIbS-YDvmAI5PdMVI4rEWYjQOMB4-_ZyTOqOiNyS5ENTBmOb_vPkcUN2eP04tHrgAe9SBEFwl_3VHx-WhrU-M6tw1szJKTYhbRoVifvWPAYbcHhNQ/s400/DSC00819.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The screws' actions are counter-intuitive -- it's clockwise to loosen; counterclockwise to tighten. There's not a thing that I can do about that; it's the nature of the beast. The manufacturer no doubt didn't want to incur the additional cost of left-handed screw threads. Left-handed screw threads would impart intuitive vising action to the work stand's jaws; i.e. clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.<br />
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There is a peculiarity that I <i>can</i> do something about, though, and that's the outrageous amount of lash<sup>[1]</sup> in the vise screws. Note the gap between the crank and the frame in the following photo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvPK0VRhK2_z7FS6mn0_5fOeWuu2-hgkiIWPUnwK1t3SXFo9_8Th6ZTCRvE2bYMSciHoB-OTQ2K3iILhrxA9EFR8Ahyphenhyphenha5fYz_521Jc08Xr20CJ7NPhCf5nGYvLS8PDJC1WtMonz0NdGw/s1600/DSC00820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvPK0VRhK2_z7FS6mn0_5fOeWuu2-hgkiIWPUnwK1t3SXFo9_8Th6ZTCRvE2bYMSciHoB-OTQ2K3iILhrxA9EFR8Ahyphenhyphenha5fYz_521Jc08Xr20CJ7NPhCf5nGYvLS8PDJC1WtMonz0NdGw/s400/DSC00820.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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That gap lends about a couple of turns of play to the crank's action. The crank on the other side is the same. It's annoying. If I can install a couple of flat washers to take up that space, I should have a work stand that's much more pleasant to use.<br />
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Knocking out a roll pin freed the crank from its screw. A pair of 3/8" SAE flat washers fit nicely for play eliminators.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5MqurUoDy_rByEpEH6KQPvwLQLJP6JwukJnJJY6N0otqhERJ0fdb2MI27iKbwwESJigsICnWJF-3Uj2R-DrV6gnDehqZmRaJg2-CHgtd4uFDu-xEiGfhikwdIDEqP51mMWqtrjPNRFY0/s1600/DSC00832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5MqurUoDy_rByEpEH6KQPvwLQLJP6JwukJnJJY6N0otqhERJ0fdb2MI27iKbwwESJigsICnWJF-3Uj2R-DrV6gnDehqZmRaJg2-CHgtd4uFDu-xEiGfhikwdIDEqP51mMWqtrjPNRFY0/s400/DSC00832.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And here we are with the crank reinstalled.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Tos616IN42Akoc0TNyDB0I948U12Tva8F3ywz9G-K2RzF8NdICjpl5dOsMdygdTWViIPBcTVCXawlaj4R9u39I_rvSN9cKPxVm-SNGgezU0IfM745FmlbsGSD9to7fsMe1XO09I1EGk/s1600/DSC00837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Tos616IN42Akoc0TNyDB0I948U12Tva8F3ywz9G-K2RzF8NdICjpl5dOsMdygdTWViIPBcTVCXawlaj4R9u39I_rvSN9cKPxVm-SNGgezU0IfM745FmlbsGSD9to7fsMe1XO09I1EGk/s400/DSC00837.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I lubricated all the thrust bearing points and the screw with roller chain lubricant, and now I've got vise screw action with no binding, and minimal lash. Much better.<br />
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<b>Note</b>:<br />
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[1] See this <a href="https://rougeriverworkshop.blogspot.com/2012/08/lexicon-backlashlash.html">'lexicon' post</a> for an explanation of my use of the term 'lash'.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-40911970153427923472019-07-14T19:00:00.002-04:002019-07-23T06:15:50.139-04:00A Stanley No. 1299 Utility Knife<br />
This old cast iron utility knife is quite nice, but its paint job is way past it.<br />
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I'll strip off what's left of the paint, and give it new primer and paint. But before I go any further, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jk_j8-PFW0">here's</a> a YouTube video of an American gentleman's restoration of a similar knife. The man's work is awesome -- way beyond anything I'd even attempt.<br />
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<b>Inside The Handle</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">MONDAY, JULY 15, 2019</span><br />
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A single 10-24 x 3/4" plain slot flat head screw holds the two halves of the handle together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAaOGOjJkpjA-YdoKC6L_h7qQhzOUtZ_3feDEIYLToXi1kOIszc6bFayEsuCJGfdGg3vany2DKzm04r4gHRUZjmXusLu5ELoZ-xsCFI_zzTxSml7_ak3MEcFr9OmtWkP4G12Qis2e3Zw8/s1600/DSC00792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAaOGOjJkpjA-YdoKC6L_h7qQhzOUtZ_3feDEIYLToXi1kOIszc6bFayEsuCJGfdGg3vany2DKzm04r4gHRUZjmXusLu5ELoZ-xsCFI_zzTxSml7_ak3MEcFr9OmtWkP4G12Qis2e3Zw8/s400/DSC00792.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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There's space for spare blade storage.<br />
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For my money, this utility knife type has been pretty well obsoleted by the Olfa 18mm snap-off blade style of knife, but the old style of knives and blades are still available. I imagine that an attractive feature of the old knives is precisely that the blades can't snap off on you.<br />
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- - -</div>
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<b>Paint Stripped Off And Primer Applied</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRAUXf1EyY6DsiHfLnP49BeurDFpUy4iXupx6YWmLi4zHHDf8yCDgKqr8Cb2eWnXxV-RMyomNbfxcm2YgG5HDPOTCFdd7BeSli7sB5ORdj_vppEdjVBUnsI5iNZBTRSL3x2OPDBR4KNM/s1600/DSC00795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRAUXf1EyY6DsiHfLnP49BeurDFpUy4iXupx6YWmLi4zHHDf8yCDgKqr8Cb2eWnXxV-RMyomNbfxcm2YgG5HDPOTCFdd7BeSli7sB5ORdj_vppEdjVBUnsI5iNZBTRSL3x2OPDBR4KNM/s400/DSC00795.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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There's a coat of grey primer. Still to come are two coats of red enamel.<br />
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<b>Red Enamel Done</b><br />
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And here's two coats of Canadian Tire's Armor Coat fire red rust paint.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRR89itt-i8X34C1orUQgFGMHHXN2fpqXjXokb5BcTKs7Iktk96BxMAFViH1K1mivD9TSOBWuLafjLzkOIBChidNxvS0ZTxT6pj4r_Jx-qZVmOZuKTR0KZCm9EyzR8tkmy4_kVLbceS4U/s1600/DSC00798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRR89itt-i8X34C1orUQgFGMHHXN2fpqXjXokb5BcTKs7Iktk96BxMAFViH1K1mivD9TSOBWuLafjLzkOIBChidNxvS0ZTxT6pj4r_Jx-qZVmOZuKTR0KZCm9EyzR8tkmy4_kVLbceS4U/s400/DSC00798.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'll leave that to sit and harden for a week, then put it back together with a new blade. I'll have a nicely refurbished knife that I'll probably never use.<br />
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<b>Done</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">SATURDAY, JULY 20, 2019</span><br />
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It has a new blade in it. It can go back to hanging on its nail on a tool board.<br />
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We'll see if I find use for it now that it's all prettied up.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3123437528970945150.post-11837845296821854382019-07-08T17:51:00.002-04:002019-07-13T13:36:11.490-04:00A Toro Electric Mower, 120 Volt Corded<br />
A roadside find. Width of cut is 18".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNi5tuqGXXUtIaXTYapp0gP77GUxwikksxEFSyKJQa3QNnuXQfElxG80pKJ0JqT_N2mThQGjMf_WsWDt6DLhGGJIsfaEapAm04bc0KFVZwsKbOhNlMK7BNy9vTD8qqXCZC5qB6VgMFyM/s1600/DSC00744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNi5tuqGXXUtIaXTYapp0gP77GUxwikksxEFSyKJQa3QNnuXQfElxG80pKJ0JqT_N2mThQGjMf_WsWDt6DLhGGJIsfaEapAm04bc0KFVZwsKbOhNlMK7BNy9vTD8qqXCZC5qB6VgMFyM/s400/DSC00744.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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ID plate data:<br />
<ul>
<li>AMPS 12</li>
<li>TYPE E120</li>
<li>MODEL 20646</li>
<li>SERIAL # 8930708 03 </li>
</ul>
The cord connection plug looks very bad.<br />
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One prong has delaminated, and the plastic at its base is all bubbled up. I suspect that this mower has had a catastrophic failure of some sort. Let's get the top cover off for a look see.<br />
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<b>Top Cover Off, And A Startup</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">WEDNESDAY, JULY 10, 2019</span><br />
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Four obvious No. 12 x 1 1/2" pan head threading screws with No. 2 Phillips recess fasten the cover in place. And here we are with the top cover off.<br />
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The blade is belt driven by a high speed universal motor. Drive specs from the service manual are:<br />
<br />
'Motor 20,500 rpm with step down belt drive ratio 5.8-1. Blade speed at 20,500 rpm is 3,534 rpm.' <br />
<br />
So blade speed on this electric machine is similar to blade speed on a gasoline engine mower.<br />
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I managed to plug an extension cord onto the distressed connection plug, and the machine starts and runs. So maybe the catastrophic failure that I was imagining was entirely an extension cord receptacle failure. A poor receptacle contact would account for the extreme heating in evidence at one of the mower's connector's prongs.<br />
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There's a lever in evidence that I suspect may be part of a blade brake mechanism. The lever doesn't appear to move or do anything when the deadman bail is operated. That bears investigation.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<b>Blade Brake Revealed</b><br />
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With the belt slipped off the big pulley, an impact wrench makes short work of getting the 15/16" A/F (across flats) pulley nut off. (Support the blade from underneath, else the spindle will drop when the nut is removed.) Under the pulley is the brake drum. And all is revealed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtU-GzNnHmNX-e_fvZoqXKhpZNerIFkPw-5Te1ax8BwK5UMFYl0aprphNjODmEsVhkWx-K_luwhJXZq5pzmhlrcZ-taTSjy1jdxoSLRXYUJNdafCN31GI2ctVZ_8bOK1znuuFbZ3Nw7q0/s1600/DSC00762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtU-GzNnHmNX-e_fvZoqXKhpZNerIFkPw-5Te1ax8BwK5UMFYl0aprphNjODmEsVhkWx-K_luwhJXZq5pzmhlrcZ-taTSjy1jdxoSLRXYUJNdafCN31GI2ctVZ_8bOK1znuuFbZ3Nw7q0/s400/DSC00762.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The motionless lever I was seeing is a spring anchor bracket. The blade brake mechanism is fine -- it's fully operational. So I appear to have a useable mower here; I just have to rectify that overheated plug prong problem.<br />
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<b>Connection Plug Bypassed</b> -- <span style="font-size: xx-small;">THURSDAY, JULY 11. 2019</span><br />
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And there we are -- the mower is fit for use and saleable.<br />
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Tom Gaspickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16512002805129573697noreply@blogger.com0